TREESTANDMAN Report post Posted June 11, 2004 For several years I shot aluminum XX75's w/ the uninocks using a 3 blade 100 grain muzzy broadhead and my arrows would fly straight and hit very consistent. A lot of articles and hunters were promoting the carbon arrow at the time so I decided to switch to carbons for more speed and durability. When I switched over I was very impressed w/ the speed and accuracy with field points but when I put the broadheads on, my arrows would not group at all. I fine tuned by bow w/ the broad heads on, but still the carbons would not control the broad heads. Have any of you experienced this? Since then I have switched back to aluminums and they group really well. I shoot a mathews Ultra 2 at about 66 lbs. I really like how durable the carbons are and the speed but I don't think they control a broadhead like an aluminum. What do you guys think? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Guest_couesdiehard Report post Posted June 11, 2004 You may want to try a couple of other broadhead styles with some carbons. Sometimes due to the light weight of the carbons vs. aluminums the carbon arrow won't stablize as well with some broadheads because the broadhead design acts like fins and pulls the front of the arrow every which way. Sometimes a broadhead with larger cut-outs will solve this or maybe even consider an open on impact mechanical broadhead. One last thing, also consider the inserts on the carbons. Usually carbons are thinner in diameter than corresponding aluminums so the broadhead's ferrule may be larger than the diameter of the carbon arrow. Sometimes this causes a problem with the broadhead being in true alignment with the arrow shaft. There probably is no super quick fix. On the bright side you have some time to play with your set up before the hunt so you could find a set-up that drives tacks. Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TREESTANDMAN Report post Posted June 11, 2004 Thanks for the valuable info. I'm sure you are right about changing my broadhead. I have so many arrows and broadheads though that I will be sticking w/ aluminums for a while at least. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
300 wsm Report post Posted June 11, 2004 Another thing you can try is a different size vein, or a helical twist in your veins. I Shoot gold tip 55/75's with 3 inch veins and no twist in them, with an 85 gr steel force broadhead, and they fly very well. When I was shooting 100 gr steel force I needed a 4 inch vein with a heavy helical in them to get the best flight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
galiuro mountain man Report post Posted June 12, 2004 I agree with 300 wsm. A slight helical twist could help. I just changed to a drop away rest so I can put a helical twist on my 3" fletches. They are more stable in the air, and group better than straight ones. I only lost about 4 feet per second also, now my arrows fly at 297 fps out of a 68lb bow, with 360 grain arrows. With my aluminums, I shoot around 275 fps, and they are only 10 grains heavier. I really like carbon arrows, IMO they shoot better, and last longer. GMM Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KGAINES Report post Posted June 12, 2004 Both my brothers have switched to carbons, but I have kept the aluminums. I tried the carbons and did not like them, maybe I will take some of these suggestions and try again. I was shooting my bow every day up until about a month ago ( shoulder problem), I will hopefully be able to start again soon, I shoot an older Pro-Line at 65lbs and I have shot that for last 16 years or so. Ok now that I just about needed a calculator to figure out how old my bow is maybe I need to upgrade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arizona Griz Report post Posted June 13, 2004 I have never had any desire to change to carbons. I personally use X7's 2413 for hunting and am able to get about 305 ft./sec. from my 435 gr. arrow. I get this performance from a bow that is 10 years old. I use 4in. vanes and put the maximum amount of offset I can with my straight fletching jig. I really see no reason to change. Most of my friends have though. Arizona Griz. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
galiuro mountain man Report post Posted June 13, 2004 Wow, what kind of bow is it? What draw wieght are you pulling? That is very fast for that wieght of arrow. GMM Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest big ldh Report post Posted June 13, 2004 fletching is the key to stable arrow flight i see guys talkin about steering there broadheads with 3 inch vains and light arrows. speed is great but thats not the answer to everything . carbons or aluiminum it doesnt matter what matters is that you shoot your arrows out of a well tuned bow and match the fletching to the broadhead you shoot its all so simple if you take the time to read the fantastic articles that have been written on arrows and there flight .most guys dont no the first thing about tuning a bow and matching your arrows and broadheads to your bow set up wake up and go back to school you owe it to the animals you hunt . target archers are about the most together group of archers out there they no there equipment and they spend the time playing with it !!!! signed concerned hunter Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arizona Griz Report post Posted June 13, 2004 GMM, my bow is a Darton Lightning set at 76 lbs. I would actually shoot the bow at a heavier weight but it is maxed out. I have used 2312's (380gr.) out of it for 3D shoots and have hit 329ft./sec. As you can see, I will stick to the aluminums. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
More D Report post Posted June 14, 2004 All great ideas as far as I can tell. I am one of the guys that does not nowabout tuning a bow, but so far every thing works great! Here is my opinion; Try using different brands of carbon with different heads. My bow really likes Vapor Blackhawks only with 100gr Muzzy 4blds and Gold Tip XT's w/ 100grn Gladiators by GT also. If I try and mix them up all goes out the window. I have know idea why but since finding the right combo I don't care. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m1280 Report post Posted June 18, 2004 hey guys and gals just a note about the carbons as most of you probably already know, but for those of you that dont, if your carbon breaks while perforating the animal make sure you remove the meat in the affected area with about a 2-4 inch radious of the broken area, has somthing to do w/ the carbon fiber/graphite deposits. then wash the area thourghly. probably not a problem w/ smaller bodied animals as most shots are pass throughs, have seen it in the larger animals such as elk and larger. good luck all.. -mike- Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coues addict Report post Posted June 19, 2004 (edited) Treestandman I didn`t change to carbon arrows untill last season. I love aluminum arrows, untill you bend one then they,suck, even if you do have an arrow straightener. I really like the carbons because you don`t worry about bending them. A guy can get real caught up in this speed game, so what I did is went to a relatively heavy carbon arrow. About 9 grains per inch. (I got a little better speed , but still retained enough weight for good penetration) I had a robin hood @ 20 yards within the first couple of weeks. I really only shoot now at 30yards and over. I think in the long run you will like the carbons once you get your setup dialed in. I always fletch my own arrows and I like to do a lot of bare shaft testing. The way it works is, basically, if your bow is tuned and setup right your arrows will fly pretty good up to about 35 - 40 yards with no fletching at all. When you get to that point , fletch your arrows and you are gonna be right in there. I don`t know if this helps or not but, these are only my preferances. Good Luck this season Coues Addict Edited January 1, 1970 by coues addict Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
