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Zeke-BE

Shoot off sand bags, sled, stands, bi pod?

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A lead sled creates a "pivot" point at the toe of your stock resulting in muzzle lift during recoil. Your POI is usually much different transitioning from the sled to bags, bipod etc. However transitioning from the bench on bags to a bipod can be done with less variance providing the correct techniques and bipod design are being used. By using a rear bag under the rear of the stock and preloading a bipod forward that pivots straight back will mimic much closer to the motion of the rifle like it would on 2 sandbags off the bench.

 

Here's a video link where Aaron Davidson does a really good job of explaining this.

 

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Like someone else mentioned, a lead sled introduces human error because it leaves positioning of the rifle in the sled to the operator and it must be repositioned exactly for each and every shot. A bipod and even sand bags will also do the same although with much less variations. The key to consistent groups is eliminating the human error factor by having a rest that will let the crosshairs settle perfectly on the aim point without any introduction of force from the shooter. Any force that is introduced regardless of how small or light will change the group size. This is why the sled doesn't work as well as you have to force the crosshairs into shooting position to shoot the groups. I use wind flags everytime I shoot for group so that I'm again eliminating as much human error as possible. I also use a front rest with windage and elevation adjustments and a 30# rear bag so it doesn't move with high recoil. And then I also use an adjustable stool so that my body is in exactly the same place for every shot. Some tips on getting the best possible groups regardless of what equipment is available are:

1. try to shoot the same wind condition if possible, note the wind direction and intensity when you shoot that first shot and then try to shoot that same condition throughout the group.

2. Try to position the rifle in the same exact position as when you fired the first shot. In other words make sure the fore end and butt is supported in exactly the same place as when the first shot is fired. Also try to use the same amount of grip and cheek pressure on each and every shot.

3. Use wind flags and check the wind condition.

4. shoot one fouling shot before shooting your first group.

5. Another thing to note is barrel temp. A hotter barrel can increase pressure, change velocity, and may introduce larger groups. So try to shoot with a good cooling period between groups.The right load should shoot well regardless of barrel temp, well to a certain extent anyway. Each and every rifle is different!

After you find the best load, I recommend doing some long range shooting with wind flags and a wind meter so you can have an idea of what certain wind conditions will do.

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What exactly are your "hot loads"?

pushing 208 grains 3010 fps and sub Moa groups. I got it up to 3060 with no sticky bolt and backed off a 1/2 of grain. But the best one is shooting 2990 with another 1/2 grain off, so Im looking into that one more.

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The last .300WM I did load development for was pushing a 210 HVLD @ 2940 with a moderate load, a couple full grains below max load for that rifle. 2990 or 3010 is not much differeneeded to an elk.

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The last .300WM I did load development for was pushing a 210 HVLD @ 2940 with a moderate load, a couple full grains below max load for that rifle. 2990 or 3010 is not much differeneeded to an elk.

 

Right I know, I guess let me explain more. Shooting some loads that were 2850-2920 were 1-1/2 to 2" spreads. Some of my best ones were shooting at 2700 fps and 2990.

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The last .300WM I did load development for was pushing a 210 HVLD @ 2940 with a moderate load, a couple full grains below max load for that rifle. 2990 or 3010 is not much differeneeded to an elk.

 

You might have to educate me a little more, i thought pushing a 208-215 grain bullet out of a win mag around 3000 fps is a hot load?? So dropping it down to 2940 is moderate?

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It could be moderate in one 300 mag and primer piercing pressure in the next. Most large capacity cases using slow powder can't be down loaded very far as it can cause irregular pressure and hang fires so the difference from minimum to moderate to max pressure can be a pretty small percentage.

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Due nailed it. 2940 was moderate for the rifle I was loading for. I had some over 3000, but not as consistent or accurate, and out of a good node.

Only your rifle can tell you it's max load. 2990 is cooking. I was just saying if 2990 is more accurate that 3010, stick with the 2990 load.

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