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jamaro

how many do you work up?

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Shoot groups of three. if a load shows promise ( it shoots under 1" for 3 shots) load up groups of 5 going half a grain above and below that group. which ever of the 3 (above, dead on, and below) shoots the best.. load up 5 more and make sure the results duplicate. If they do, then you have a winner!

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Shoot groups of three. if a load shows promise ( it shoots under 1" for 3 shots) load up groups of 5 going half a grain above and below that group. which ever of the 3 (above, dead on, and below) shoots the best.. load up 5 more and make sure the results duplicate. If they do, then you have a winner!

 

Same here.

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I shoot the whole box as fast as I can then go out to see if I did any good :D

 

But seriously I either shoot 3 or 4 shot groupings and then check. Normally I will take 2 to 3 minutes between each shot also.

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I shoot the whole box as fast as I can then go out to see if I did any good :D

Just like you do to fill your tag. One Box One Kill!

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Same as all the above, start with three. But I wish it was just that simple. You have several different bullet selections, with several weight selections. Then you have several different powders to select from as well, but the fun doesn't stop there. After that you you have different bullet seating depths to figure out as well. When you add up all the possibilities, the number of different combinations is pretty overwhelming!

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I like to start with the length that is as long as my magazine will fit and go from there. I will pick out one bullet ( for me its 140 accubond both in .277 and .284) and load from there. I will try the powder that offers the best speed in the book and go from there.

 

If you have tried everything with no luck, change the primers. that can make a big difference!

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for a hunting load I like to pick a bullet I want to try then I load 5 to 7 rounds, one grn increments until I start showing pressure. Back off one grain and write it down. Repeat with four or five different powders.

 

Once I have max on all I load five rounds of each. Pick the best group and start messing with seating. I almost always have one load(or more) that is under an inch and on my good rifles I have them down to .5-.75. I can't seem to shoot the big magnums to their potential so one inch groups work for me. Guess I am getting soft in my old age.

 

Targets are awhole nuther thing. Bracketing works really well.....

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I like that idea of working up to max, I have never done that. I always look at the max in the book, then go about 2-3 grains below max and work up.

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Casey,

 

I find the books are very conservative and I will sometimes get WAY over the max load, with little or no pressure. My 6.5 is shooting less than a half inch and I get 200 fps more than the book shows. I have found powders that are not in the "recommended" category that actually give me better performance with this method.

 

I do recommend starting below listed pressures tho....

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Normally I choose a bullet that I want to use and look in the manuals for powders that give the higher velocities with a good load density (~90%) without having to compress the charge. Starting 5% below max, shoot groups of three in 0.5 gr increments over the chrongraph. I will choose the best combination of velocity and accuracy, then vary that load by +/- 0.2gr, shooting groups of 5. I'd rather have more accuracy than an extra 50-100 fps. Then I will vary the seating depth.

 

With the 6.5 WSM that had no load data, I loades one round with the chosen bullet and powder increasing by 1 grain each round, and shot over a chronograph until I reached my target velocity ot the velocity increase taperd off. I let this be max, dropped back down a couple of grains and worked up in 0.5 grain increments, 3 rounds per charge, to shoot for accuracy and over a chrongraph. Shoot groups of 5 with +/- 0.2 gr. With the best, then I vary the seating depth.

 

I have tried using different primers in the load, but have not seen much difference in group size for a hunting rifle.

 

Has anyone used the Audette ladder system at 300 yards or OCW method to develop loads?

http://www.mikeswillowlake.com/ladder%20test.htm

http://home.earthlink.net/~dannewberry/dan...ment/index.html

http://home.earthlink.net/~dannewberry/dan...opment/id1.html

http://practicalrifler.6.forumer.com/a/ocw...ut_post363.html

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Casey,

 

I find the books are very conservative and I will sometimes get WAY over the max load, with little or no pressure. My 6.5 is shooting less than a half inch and I get 200 fps more than the book shows. I have found powders that are not in the "recommended" category that actually give me better performance with this method.

 

I do recommend starting below listed pressures tho....

 

 

Your right bout the books being conservative.. I believe my 270WSM is shooting 1-2 grains above listed max with nothing more than the regular WSM pressure signs. and I get awesome accuracy and velocity!

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Casey,

 

I find the books are very conservative and I will sometimes get WAY over the max load, with little or no pressure. My 6.5 is shooting less than a half inch and I get 200 fps more than the book shows. I have found powders that are not in the "recommended" category that actually give me better performance with this method.

 

I do recommend starting below listed pressures tho....

 

 

Your right bout the books being conservative.. I believe my 270WSM is shooting 1-2 grains above listed max with nothing more than the regular WSM pressure signs. and I get awesome accuracy and velocity!

 

 

I have many of the major reloading books published since the 1950s and it is interesting to compare loads that were listed as maximum years ago against those listed today. I'm not suggesting that anyone should load heavier than the new books list. However, I used those early books for years and never blew up any of my rifles. Maybe the powders and primers weren't as potent as today.

 

Bill Quimby

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