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Coach

DIY Security Box

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Very nice design it looks to be very well built with the exception of the chain link welded on the sides. I would beef them up. One good hit with a heavy tool or hacksaw I think they could snag the 25 lb box the camera is in and take the whole thing.

 

Just my 2 cents

 

 

Yeah, you are totally right about those being a weak link. I'll beef them up. On the other hand, I added those as kind of an afterthought. I don't think cables or chains are very effective. On the right tree, I don't think I would even use them. Just some hardened lag bolts and the inside lock. It's kind of more of a psych-out I think if they see the cable, then the lag bolts, then the lock...maybe they'll move on. But at the same time, the kind of P.O.S. that would steal a camera, might just be jerky enough to smash it or shoot it if they can't steal it. I can't defend against that.

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Coach, I got a question for you. I use a house 12 volt alarm backup battery for my cameras, do you think it is worth the money to get lithium rechargeable over the 12 volts I have now? The 12 volts are rechargeable and only cost me 15$ each.

Coach; I must admit that design looks very good !!! How much does it weigh? My design uses hinges and is all welded with heavy chain for the tree strap, as well as a mounting bracket for the lags. Can you design a mounting piece so you can pivot the camera for off angles? Again very good design!!!!!!!

 

I'm gonna take a wild guess at 5-7 pounds. I do have a nice piece of steel that is perfect for a pivoting base. I don't know where it came from, but it is going to be really cool to make a box based on it. That will be in DIY Security Box II at some point in the near future. I'll probably use it for my Covert II, or Moultrie M-80. I've been testing the Covert II, Moultrie-80 and the DLC Covert CA 3.0.

 

Overall, I like the DLCs a little better than the Moultrie based on their triggering distance and speed, but the Moultrie has one awesome feature that the DLCs don't have, which is the "plot-watcher" feature, where it doesn't rely on triggering, it just takes pictures at set intervals (seconds) and using the software provided, and you get a movie clip of the action. This is really good for watching a large area like a field or distant wallow, where the animals might not be within triggering range of the PIR.

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Coach, I got a question for you. I use a house 12 volt alarm backup battery for my cameras, do you think it is worth the money to get lithium rechargeable over the 12 volts I have now? The 12 volts are rechargeable and only cost me 15$ each.

Coach; I must admit that design looks very good !!! How much does it weigh? My design uses hinges and is all welded with heavy chain for the tree strap, as well as a mounting bracket for the lags. Can you design a mounting piece so you can pivot the camera for off angles? Again very good design!!!!!!!

 

I'm gonna take a wild guess at 5-7 pounds. I do have a nice piece of steel that is perfect for a pivoting base. I don't know where it came from, but it is going to be really cool to make a box based on it. That will be in DIY Security Box II at some point in the near future. I'll probably use it for my Covert II, or Moultrie M-80. I've been testing the Covert II, Moultrie-80 and the DLC Covert CA 3.0.

 

Overall, I like the DLCs a little better than the Moultrie based on their triggering distance and speed, but the Moultrie has one awesome feature that the DLCs don't have, which is the "plot-watcher" feature, where it doesn't rely on triggering, it just takes pictures at set intervals (seconds) and using the software provided, and you get a movie clip of the action. This is really good for watching a large area like a field or distant wallow, where the animals might not be within triggering range of the PIR.

 

 

To be honest, I don't know what you mean by "house 12 volt alarm backup battery for my cameras". I bought some pricey lithium batteries for my Covet II and left it for a very long time in unit 24A. It literally took thousands of pictures filling a huge card more than once, and when I hook it up now, it still shows a full charge, probably 18 months later and 4K+ pictures of cows eating my salt. Most of the newer cameras from pretty much all manufacturers are extremelty efficient when it comes to battery life. I stay away from anyting C or D cell. I think that's a tip-off that they are using old, inefficient electrronics.

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SLA batteries work well (most alarm batteries). Especially with a solar panel on them. I've had them set up for for 6 months. I wrap the batteries is reflectix or insulate them. And then ware proof them

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Coach; I must admit that design looks very good !!! How much does it weigh? My design uses hinges and is all welded with heavy chain for the tree strap, as well as a mounting bracket for the lags. Can you design a mounting piece so you can pivot the camera for off angles? Again very good design!!!!!!!

 

I'm gonna take a wild guess at 5-7 pounds. I do have a nice piece of steel that is perfect for a pivoting base. I don't know where it came from, but it is going to be really cool to make a box based on it. That will be in DIY Security Box II at some point in the near future. I'll probably use it for my Covert II, or Moultrie M-80. I've been testing the Covert II, Moultrie-80 and the DLC Covert CA 3.0.

 

Overall, I like the DLCs a little better than the Moultrie based on their triggering distance and speed, but the Moultrie has one awesome feature that the DLCs don't have, which is the "plot-watcher" feature, where it doesn't rely on triggering, it just takes pictures at set intervals (seconds) and using the software provided, and you get a movie clip of the action. This is really good for watching a large area like a field or distant wallow, where the animals might not be within triggering range of the PIR.

 

 

Actually the new Covert Edge series has that time lapse feature. You can set it from 20 seconds to 24 hrs. I don't have those in stock, but will be getting some. Just an fyi....

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I need to get the solar panels for them soon. Where and at what price did you get yours? I was looking at the solar lights at Harbor Frieght that have the solar panel seperate from the light.

SLA batteries work well (most alarm batteries). Especially with a solar panel on them. I've had them set up for for 6 months. I wrap the batteries is reflectix or insulate them. And then ware proof them

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Coach, I got a question for you. I use a house 12 volt alarm backup battery for my cameras, do you think it is worth the money to get lithium rechargeable over the 12 volts I have now? The 12 volts are rechargeable and only cost me 15$ each.

Coach; I must admit that design looks very good !!! How much does it weigh? My design uses hinges and is all welded with heavy chain for the tree strap, as well as a mounting bracket for the lags. Can you design a mounting piece so you can pivot the camera for off angles? Again very good design!!!!!!!

 

I'm gonna take a wild guess at 5-7 pounds. I do have a nice piece of steel that is perfect for a pivoting base. I don't know where it came from, but it is going to be really cool to make a box based on it. That will be in DIY Security Box II at some point in the near future. I'll probably use it for my Covert II, or Moultrie M-80. I've been testing the Covert II, Moultrie-80 and the DLC Covert CA 3.0.

 

Overall, I like the DLCs a little better than the Moultrie based on their triggering distance and speed, but the Moultrie has one awesome feature that the DLCs don't have, which is the "plot-watcher" feature, where it doesn't rely on triggering, it just takes pictures at set intervals (seconds) and using the software provided, and you get a movie clip of the action. This is really good for watching a large area like a field or distant wallow, where the animals might not be within triggering range of the PIR.

 

 

To be honest, I don't know what you mean by "house 12 volt alarm backup battery for my cameras". I bought some pricey lithium batteries for my Covet II and left it for a very long time in unit 24A. It literally took thousands of pictures filling a huge card more than once, and when I hook it up now, it still shows a full charge, probably 18 months later and 4K+ pictures of cows eating my salt. Most of the newer cameras from pretty much all manufacturers are extremelty efficient when it comes to battery life. I stay away from anyting C or D cell. I think that's a tip-off that they are using old, inefficient electrronics.

+1 on the Lithium batteries. I use them in my coverts and still have full battery after 3000 pics.

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I need to get the solar panels for them soon. Where and at what price did you get yours? I was looking at the solar lights at Harbor Frieght that have the solar panel seperate from the light.

SLA batteries work well (most alarm batteries). Especially with a solar panel on them. I've had them set up for for 6 months. I wrap the batteries is reflectix or insulate them. And then ware proof them

I ordered mine off Cabelas, they were the cheapest ones they had. I think they were made for feaders. They arent the waterproof ones. I ran a bead of silicone on the seams, and they worked fine. Any 12v panel hooked to the battery will trickle charge it.

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Thanks for the info I'll look in to it.

I need to get the solar panels for them soon. Where and at what price did you get yours? I was looking at the solar lights at Harbor Frieght that have the solar panel seperate from the light.

SLA batteries work well (most alarm batteries). Especially with a solar panel on them. I've had them set up for for 6 months. I wrap the batteries is reflectix or insulate them. And then ware proof them

I ordered mine off Cabelas, they were the cheapest ones they had. I think they were made for feaders. They arent the waterproof ones. I ran a bead of silicone on the seams, and they worked fine. Any 12v panel hooked to the battery will trickle charge it.

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I agree also , that is the best camera box i have seen , somebody better be hauling some major tools with them to get that off the tree.

Somebody mentioned the thieves using cordless grinders, that might be tough to combat.

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AZpredator and Mason, thank you. Unfortunately, we can build some tough boxes out of steel, but ultimately they're attached to a chunk of wood. Even the toughest boxes can't stand up to a good 4" grinder with a cut-off wheel, or a chainsaw for that matter.

 

My hopes were to make a box tough enough to deter the casual thief. With the right lag bolts on a big enough tree, I don't see this getting taken - but with good tools and some motivation, there is no box strong enough to guarantee it won't be taken.

 

What stinks is that we have to go to these extremes. I've come across some pretty high-dollar cameras attached to a 2 - 4 inch tree with nothing but a strap of nylon holding them. In a million years, I can't fathom taking them, as easy as it would be. I would like to believe that most people would just leave these cameras alone and hike a ridge or 2 over and start their own salt lick, or whatever.

 

But that's just not how people are, apparently. We hear of cameras being stolen, wrecked, cards taken out of them (that one actually happened to me, and I know who did it). Guys packing heavy enough tools to steal a camera locked in a steel box - staggering, but predictable.

 

I guess the key is to find a place where nobody else feels like they own it and can do whatever they want. Get a little deeper, be a little more creative, and hope for the best. I've never had a camera stolen, but I'm sure I will at some point. When that happens, I guess I'll look for a spot further from roads, harder to hike in, etc. It might just force me to be a better hunter. Always look for the positive side of any negative encounter.

 

There's a really smart guy named Franklin Covey, and his book called 'The 7 habits of Highly Effective People' should be required reading for all school kids. One of the key concepts of this book is that every "bad" situation you encounter is an opportunity to do something good.

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