Long range accuracy from fixed blade heads???

[AZHUNTER05]

Fixed broadheads suck. Shoot rage or the g5 tekans they both make awesome entry and exit wounds. Plus they are extremely accurate and will normally shoot the same as your field points.

 

Not to start a Pi$$ing match but that has to be one of the most ignorant things I've ever heard. The only time Fixed heads "suck" is if 1. The bow is not properly tuned or 2. The shooter has form issues. Whenever I tune my bow, after paper, walk back etc.. I shoot a fixed, mechanical (usually either rage, or T3 ) and a field point. I'm not happy until they all shoot together. Once a bow is tuned, almost any head mechanical or fixed will shoot great.

I like G5 striker, montec or Wac em and now I am shooting the VPA's they are awesome.

 

 

I would love to see someone shoot accurate groups at 80 yards with a fix blade as accurately as i can do with a mechanical. Fix blades take a lot more effort and time to tune to your bow. I personally have my bow paper tuned as well and it helps but they still doesn't compare to the mechanical broadheads.

 

But thats also my opinion. You know just as well as i do, that if you ask 10 different archers one question about something you will get 10 different answers.

 

Thanks for not taking my post as an attack, as it wasn't meant to be, and I agree everyone will have an opinion.

 

Here is mine: I love to shoot broadheads, I shoot them all year around, I like to try and shoot as many brands, styles as I can. I have shot many, many broadheads and agree that mechanicals can be less sensitive to form. BUT for all of MY hunting applications, the difference between my mechanicals and fixed are negligible, out to my max hunting range. Shooting a fixed has two major advantages though. 1. (I like numbering my thoughts) When using a fixed head there is no premature deployment (quiver, or hitting branch or spider clip fail, or rubber band failure etc...) 2. When I practice with my fixed COC, VPA's I then can touch up the edge and hunt with them without having to take them off my arrow to change out blades or to take off the practice tip and re-screw in the hunting bh.

Once my solid BH is spin tested, shot then I hunt with my practice tip WITH ABSOLUTELY NO ADJUSTMENTS TO THE ARROW/BROADHEAD except to resharpen and of course that is done without taking it off the arrow.

 

Once thing I believe in is to shoot what you are comfortable with have confidence in, this archery game is mostly mental.

 

One more thing, hitting an elk in the vitals at 60 yards is relativly easy, compared to hitting a coues deer. With an elk I would rather give up a minimal amount of accuracy to have a tougher, fixed head. again my opinion.

 

And i would agree with you the mechanicals do have flaws they arent perfect. I like a lot of things about fix blades but i always have headaches getting them tuned well enough to shoot them accurately.

[lugnuts]

Mechanical blades are for rookies. If your going to be doing run and gun, draggin on you belly stalks, and creepin with an nocked arrow you dont want a mechanical. They shoot great out of the box but snag on anything and everything when your stalking. I dont want the bull or buck of a lifetime to be right in front of me and im screwing with the rubberband on the mechanical. One less thing to worry about.

[bigorange]

Its been so long since I have had an elk tag that the whole archery world of broadheads has changed. How bout some suggestions.

 

BTW before it is asked, i like to practice and get proficient much farther than I intend to shoot at animals so the shots I take seem like chip shots and the confidence level is at its peak.

 

4 blade wack ems or 4 blade slick tricks kill elk and fly great. I like to paper tune my bow first with field points, then put on the broadheads and see what happens. They may group a little different than your field points, but paper tuning it first dramatically reduces that.

 

+1 on both...

[Coach]

Lots of great heads mentioned already. Slick Tricks, Wac Em, G5 Striker are all excellent. I'll add the Magnus Stinger and Buzzcut. However my absolute favorite head is the standard Muzzy 3 blade, and I've shot a lot of differnt heads looking for the "right one" for me. Some people have trouble getting them to fly with field points, but in my current set-up they fly fantastic and they do amazing damage to whatever they hit.

[desertbowhunter]

I am a mechanical guy myself. But this year on the January deer hunt I shot the shuttle T locks. After makeing sure you have the correct arrow spine for your set up you should paper tune your bow. Then once you have done that you need to walk back tune if you don't know how to do it just google it there are plenty of articles on how to do it. I was able to get my broad heads to group out to 110 yards I think the shuttle T are some of the most accurate fixed blades around. WAC ems are pretty awesome also but are very loud in flight. My desert buck this year only made it 40 yards but it was a double lung any broad head would of done the job. Just shoot whatever gives you the most confidence thats what I do. Confidence is everything!

[elpepe25]

extreme tuning + extreme practice = Extreme confidence

 

You can get fixed to fly as good and group w/ your field points. Laser Tuning at a bow shop wont cut it. Start on paper. Then walk Back tuning. Then Group tuning. When your done it'll be throwing darts and you wont lose energy to a deployment mechanism.

 

Best of luck

[TwoGuns]

Shuttle t or strikers by g5.

 

I guess i have a bad memory when it comes to my acuracy...cause i coulda sworn in the last 4 or 5 years

I have killed elk or deer at

77

75

68

65

58

10

45

Yards

 

With fixed blades.

Maybe its cuz I shoot a mathews.

[sneekfreak]

Fixed broadheads suck. Shoot rage or the g5 tekans they both make awesome entry and exit wounds. Plus they are extremely accurate and will normally shoot the same as your field points.

 

Not to start a Pi$$ing match but that has to be one of the most ignorant things I've ever heard. The only time Fixed heads "suck" is if 1. The bow is not properly tuned or 2. The shooter has form issues. Whenever I tune my bow, after paper, walk back etc.. I shoot a fixed, mechanical (usually either rage, or T3 ) and a field point. I'm not happy until they all shoot together. Once a bow is tuned, almost any head mechanical or fixed will shoot great.

I like G5 striker, montec or Wac em and now I am shooting the VPA's they are awesome.

 

 

I would love to see someone shoot accurate groups at 80 yards with a fix blade as accurately as i can do with a mechanical. Fix blades take a lot more effort and time to tune to your bow. I personally have my bow paper tuned as well and it helps but they still doesn't compare to the mechanical broadheads.

 

But thats also my opinion. You know just as well as i do, that if you ask 10 different archers one question about something you will get 10 different answers.

 

Thanks for not taking my post as an attack, as it wasn't meant to be, and I agree everyone will have an opinion.

 

Here is mine: I love to shoot broadheads, I shoot them all year around, I like to try and shoot as many brands, styles as I can. I have shot many, many broadheads and agree that mechanicals can be less sensitive to form. BUT for all of MY hunting applications, the difference between my mechanicals and fixed are negligible, out to my max hunting range. Shooting a fixed has two major advantages though. 1. (I like numbering my thoughts) When using a fixed head there is no premature deployment (quiver, or hitting branch or spider clip fail, or rubber band failure etc...) 2. When I practice with my fixed COC, VPA's I then can touch up the edge and hunt with them without having to take them off my arrow to change out blades or to take off the practice tip and re-screw in the hunting bh.

Once my solid BH is spin tested, shot then I hunt with my practice tip WITH ABSOLUTELY NO ADJUSTMENTS TO THE ARROW/BROADHEAD except to resharpen and of course that is done without taking it off the arrow.

 

Once thing I believe in is to shoot what you are comfortable with have confidence in, this archery game is mostly mental.

 

One more thing, hitting an elk in the vitals at 60 yards is relativly easy, compared to hitting a coues deer. With an elk I would rather give up a minimal amount of accuracy to have a tougher, fixed head. again my opinion.

 

Where is the "Like" button at?

 

Well said.

[AZHUNTER05]

Shuttle t or strikers by g5.

 

I guess i have a bad memory when it comes to my acuracy...cause i coulda sworn in the last 4 or 5 years

I have killed elk or deer at

77

75

68

65

58

10

45

Yards

 

With fixed blades.

Maybe its cuz I shoot a mathews.

 

Haha +1 for shooting Matthews

[nighthawk]

+2 on Mathews!! I shoot field points!! Lol and strictly head shots haha

[glasmup]

4 blade wac'em or slick tricks!!! Fly with my field points to 80 yds.. They make good blood trails but all the animals I've shot with them thought they sucked..... but not for long!!!!!

 

I'm from the old school way of thinking and that why shoot something (mech) that could potentially fail on that hard earned shot! Keep it as simple as new age archery can get and eliminate any variables that you can! I am not dogging out mech heads as I believe there are a couple of good designs out there but I prefer to keep it simple.

 

When it comes to elk a heavier arrow and proper placement are more important issues to be concerned with IMO....

 

Good luck on your hunt!

[gotcoues]

I'm a big fan of the 4 blade wac-em broadheads, my old bow a firestorm lite would shoot field points and wac ems in an identical pattern. I have never paper tuned or messed with my archery equipment in that manner at all. I put lots of hours behind the bow and my groups have always been acceptable at my ranges.

 

I purchased my new bow, an AXE 6 and quickly fell in love. I found a new anchor point and my groups were lights out all the way out to 60 yards. I also shot regularly out to 100 yards and was very happy with my accuracy.

 

Here's my problem, after reading all of your guys posts, I'm behind in the whole bow tuning thing I guess. With my new set up, the wac ems shoot 6 inches to the right at twenty yards and that is compounded at longer ranges. I adjusted my sights back for bullseye at twenty and everything else fell into place all the way out to longer ranges. Now that it's the off season I adjusted my bow back to field points.

 

So based on the majority of your guys answers, I need to tune my new bow and I won't have that problem.

 

Also, I was surprised no one mentioned Rage 2 blade broadhead. I just watched a video on their site and the entrance wounds were unbelievable from these heads. I've seen a couple deer shot with these and the wounds were similar to what was in the video. I just ordered a pack of 125s to see if they will fly like my field points.

 

I DO NOT want to adjust my bow for broadheads vs. field points, so this is why I was going to try the rage heads out.

 

I really enjoyed reading everyone's post. I certainly shoot as well as most people I know, but obviously lack in "tuning" knowledge.

 

 

From my experience, I will never shoot a light arrow set up for elk again. I used my light arrow set up on elk and came to regret my that decision in the worst way.

 

Good luck to you on your hunt.

[AZHUNTER05]

I'm a big fan of the 4 blade wac-em broadheads, my old bow a firestorm lite would shoot field points and wac ems in an identical pattern. I have never paper tuned or messed with my archery equipment in that manner at all. I put lots of hours behind the bow and my groups have always been acceptable at my ranges.

 

I purchased my new bow, an AXE 6 and quickly fell in love. I found a new anchor point and my groups were lights out all the way out to 60 yards. I also shot regularly out to 100 yards and was very happy with my accuracy.

 

Here's my problem, after reading all of your guys posts, I'm behind in the whole bow tuning thing I guess. With my new set up, the wac ems shoot 6 inches to the right at twenty yards and that is compounded at longer ranges. I adjusted my sights back for bullseye at twenty and everything else fell into place all the way out to longer ranges. Now that it's the off season I adjusted my bow back to field points.

 

So based on the majority of your guys answers, I need to tune my new bow and I won't have that problem.

 

Also, I was surprised no one mentioned Rage 2 blade broadhead. I just watched a video on their site and the entrance wounds were unbelievable from these heads. I've seen a couple deer shot with these and the wounds were similar to what was in the video. I just ordered a pack of 125s to see if they will fly like my field points.

 

I DO NOT want to adjust my bow for broadheads vs. field points, so this is why I was going to try the rage heads out.

 

I really enjoyed reading everyone's post. I certainly shoot as well as most people I know, but obviously lack in "tuning" knowledge.

 

 

From my experience, I will never shoot a light arrow set up for elk again. I used my light arrow set up on elk and came to regret my that decision in the worst way.

 

Good luck to you on your hunt.

 

I love the rage broadheads! They cause massive damage and they have always shot the same as my field points. Tuning your bow for broadheads can be a head ache.

[elkrack]

If you want long (or short ) range stability and repeatability, do like Howard Hill (rememeber Howard), shoot fixed blades with a 3 to 1 length to width ratio. works every time

[chico]

have had great performance from 4 blade muzzy 100 grain. carbon arrows fly true from my Bow Tech Diamond Marquis. Have tried different types of tips and this one seems to do the trick for my set up. Best of luck to all with archery tags in 2012.