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buckman888

Cornmeal black powder filler

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9 hours ago, azslim said:

to keep the powder from spreading out in the case, more consistent ignition 

Sorry I wasn't specific but I'm not loading shells, it's a Ruger Old Army so I'm loading it right in the cylinder. Does the same principle apply? Thanks for the help

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2 hours ago, buckman888 said:

Sorry I wasn't specific but I'm not loading shells, it's a Ruger Old Army so I'm loading it right in the cylinder. Does the same principle apply? Thanks for the help

So, cap and ball? Are you using FFFF?

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Well that should  fill the cylinder up quite a bit, how many grains are you using and what do the reloading manuals recommend?  I haven't owned a BP firearm but I have read that sometimes people would use a filler in cartridges if they were using a very fast powder like Unique of say 5 grains in a case that had a capacity of say 20 grains to keep the powder close to the primer to avoid pressure spikes.

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My dad is in the SASS Single Action Shooting Society, and they use grits as filler to reduce recoil.

The cowboys on horseback use the same kind of load when they are shooting balloons and the same thing for fast draw. (No lead bullets) Grits are the projectile.

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I use tumbler media as filler for black powder for breaking balloons , the powder tends to light the media or project it and help with breaking distance. 

Thats the only filler I'm familiar with. 

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On 1/9/2019 at 6:39 AM, PRDATR said:

Well that should  fill the cylinder up quite a bit, how many grains are you using and what do the reloading manuals recommend?  I haven't owned a BP firearm but I have read that sometimes people would use a filler in cartridges if they were using a very fast powder like Unique of say 5 grains in a case that had a capacity of say 20 grains to keep the powder close to the primer to avoid pressure spikes.

Everything I've read has said 20 grains FFF. I have a hard time getting consistent ignition so I bet I need to figure out the filler. Thanks for the info everyone!

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Never loaded for cap and ball, but black powder should never have an air gap between the bullet and powder as it does not burn progressively like smokeless and will have major pressure issues. I expect that is why you are hearing reference to fillers for that application.

 

For muzzle loading rifles, at least, there are vented nipples which can help with ignition and some brands of primers are definitely hotter than others.

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On 1/5/2019 at 9:39 PM, buckman888 said:

I keep hearing people referencing cornmeal filler in their black powder revolver loads... What is the purpose of applying a filler?

I haven't shot old model army revolvers in many years, but I used to shoot them a lot. I mean, really, a lot! When I was in college I used to buy up the junk Italian reproduction guns from the Cabela's bargain bin ($20-$40), in Kearney Nebraska and literally shoot them to death. I even hunted occasionally with the old model army and killed a deer or two with one on occasion. 

A few things I learned from pitching thousands of round balls down field. 

-filling any air gap between the powder charge and the ball will enhance cleaner ignition of the powder as the powder will be compressed against the flash hole at the back of the cylinder. 

-You will get a more consistent powder burn from cylinder to cylinder because powder charges will be uniformly pushed to the back of the cylinder. This will equate to more consistent velocity from one cylinder to the next.

And finally, the historic reason for using a filler between the powder charge and the ball. Chain fires can happen with black powder revolvers. A chain fire is when you fire the chamber inline with barrel and somehow the flash manages to ignite the powder in the adjoining chamber causing it to detonate and launch a bullet, which is not inline with barrel. Trust me Bro', having this happen is great way to develop a flinch when shooting pistols. This might be the most prevalent reason for using a filler, the prevention of an inadvertent spark sliding past a ball in an adjoining chamber and igniting that powder charge. I think this is a very rare occurrence, but it can happen. Just trust me, it can happen.

So if there is an air gap between the powder charge and the ball, a filler is a great way to stabilize velocity, possibly correct ignition problems, and possibly prevent chain fires. I recall reading about all sorts of magic things that could be used as a filler, but I always used corn meal, cheap and readily available in every grocery store bigger then a quicky mart. 

One more piece of advice. Don't use fixed steel plates as targets less then 20 yards away. Lead round balls are soft and the Old Model Army is powerful. When that soft round ball impacts a fixed steel plate, the shrapnel from the disintegrating round ball can fly straight back at you causing painful wounds that may land you in an emergency room, where a hot ER nurse might assist with stitches in an effort to put you back together. You might then decide you should marry said hot ER nurse, but then become a victim of an incredibly ugly divorce.   I wonder if she still has my 20 or so old model army revolvers, but I don't wonder enough to call and ask.

In summary, old model army revolvers are awesome and likely one of the most impressive handguns built prior to anything that chambered the 357 and 44 magnum cartridges. Using a filler between the powder and round ball may very well lend to a number of desirable ballistic efficiencies, and don't shoot at close range steel plates with an Old Model Army as it might mess with your life in ways you never even imagined.  

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