Viper Report post Posted August 17, 2016 I received the new B&C Alaskan II stock for my Remote 700. Aluminium bedding block, floated barrel....except for the "nubules" at the far forend of the stock. I can run a folded dollar bill between the whole barrel and stock, except at the stock end where it makes contact. Should this be touching the barrel? Do I need to sand it down? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firstcoueswas80 Report post Posted August 17, 2016 Shoot it. If it doesn't shoot worth a darn with the "speed bumps" as guys call em, sand em down. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trphyhntr Report post Posted August 17, 2016 shoot it like that and report back to us. it says online barrel isnt supposed to be free floated on the alaskan 2. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Viper Report post Posted August 17, 2016 shoot it like that and report back to us. it says online barrel isnt supposed to be free floated on the alaskan 2. Oh...I didn't notice that statement. Did you see that on the B&C site? I bought the stock from Stocky Stocks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trphyhntr Report post Posted August 17, 2016 shoot it like that and report back to us. it says online barrel isnt supposed to be free floated on the alaskan 2. Oh...I didn't notice that statement. Did you see that on the B&C site? I bought the stock from Stocky Stocks. I googled the piss out of the stock since I'm getting one also and I saw people saying it doesn't. I'm not sure if it does say or not on stocky stocks or b&c but it does say it on midway http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1103164530/bell-and-carlson-alaskan-ii-rifle-stock-remington-700-bdl-long-action-magnum-barrel-channel-with-full-length-aluminum-bedding-system-synthetic Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Viper Report post Posted August 17, 2016 Ah hah...that's the only site that mentions that. Well, I like it so far. Got it put together last night. Did a little cleanup of the contact areas. Otherwise, the action/barrel slipped right in. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sherman Report post Posted August 17, 2016 Looks nice Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Viper Report post Posted August 17, 2016 Shoot it. If it doesn't shoot worth a darn with the "speed bumps" as guys call em, sand em down. Is there a bad consequence to sanding it down anyway, to float the barrel? A floated barrel is a good thing...right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GreyFox Report post Posted August 17, 2016 Shoot it. If it doesn't shoot worth a darn with the "speed bumps" as guys call em, sand em down. Is there a bad consequence to sanding it down anyway, to float the barrel? A floated barrel is a good thing...right? Yes and No, depends (How's that for an answer!!) Remington piller beds; that's what those bumps are, cheaper way to piller bed it, Shoot it for accuracy, also, take a screwdriver or torx or allen (whatever is on the gun) and try slightly adjusting the tension on the action, Sometimes just a tweak on the recoil or trigger guard will change POI and tighten or spread groups. Free floating is typically better BUT if the stock is flimsy at the forend and you rest it on a rock you've just created a pressure point you did not have during sighting in. I've had bad luck with B&C stocks too much play at recoil to the point of shearing a bolt after 3 shots, LITERALLY I threw the stock in the trash, then took it out and stuck it in a corner. When I started 'smithing I needed experience glass bedding so I did, WHAT A DIFFERENCE, it's now on my go to deer rifle (SAKO 243). Yours seems to fit better than mine, but still check the spacing around the recoil lug and bolt or be prepared to cuss and visit a smith to have the recoil bolt removed - not an easy or cheap task. Mine was off center and about twice too large but I didn't notice it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dse Report post Posted August 18, 2016 My brother and I put stocks on our REM 700s a couple years ago he decided to take the speed bumps out I wanted to see how it shot first. Mine shot 1/2 moa with the pressure point his shot around 6 moa without. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRDATR Report post Posted August 18, 2016 Shoot it. If it doesn't shoot worth a darn with the "speed bumps" as guys call em, sand em down. Is there a bad consequence to sanding it down anyway, to float the barrel? A floated barrel is a good thing...right? Yes and No, depends (How's that for an answer!!) Remington piller beds; that's what those bumps are, cheaper way to piller bed it, Shoot it for accuracy, also, take a screwdriver or torx or allen (whatever is on the gun) and try slightly adjusting the tension on the action, Sometimes just a tweak on the recoil or trigger guard will change POI and tighten or spread groups. Free floating is typically better BUT if the stock is flimsy at the forend and you rest it on a rock you've just created a pressure point you did not have during sighting in. I've had bad luck with B&C stocks too much play at recoil to the point of shearing a bolt after 3 shots, LITERALLY I threw the stock in the trash, then took it out and stuck it in a corner. When I started 'smithing I needed experience glass bedding so I did, WHAT A DIFFERENCE, it's now on my go to deer rifle (SAKO 243). Yours seems to fit better than mine, but still check the spacing around the recoil lug and bolt or be prepared to cuss and visit a smith to have the recoil bolt removed - not an easy or cheap task. Mine was off center and about twice too large but I didn't notice it. What is a recoil bolt? Is it specific to Sako? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Viper Report post Posted August 18, 2016 Shoot it. If it doesn't shoot worth a darn with the "speed bumps" as guys call em, sand em down. Is there a bad consequence to sanding it down anyway, to float the barrel? A floated barrel is a good thing...right? Yes and No, depends (How's that for an answer!!) Remington piller beds; that's what those bumps are, cheaper way to piller bed it, Shoot it for accuracy, also, take a screwdriver or torx or allen (whatever is on the gun) and try slightly adjusting the tension on the action, Sometimes just a tweak on the recoil or trigger guard will change POI and tighten or spread groups. Free floating is typically better BUT if the stock is flimsy at the forend and you rest it on a rock you've just created a pressure point you did not have during sighting in. I've had bad luck with B&C stocks too much play at recoil to the point of shearing a bolt after 3 shots, LITERALLY I threw the stock in the trash, then took it out and stuck it in a corner. When I started 'smithing I needed experience glass bedding so I did, WHAT A DIFFERENCE, it's now on my go to deer rifle (SAKO 243). Yours seems to fit better than mine, but still check the spacing around the recoil lug and bolt or be prepared to cuss and visit a smith to have the recoil bolt removed - not an easy or cheap task. Mine was off center and about twice too large but I didn't notice it. What is a recoil bolt? Is it specific to Sako? I take it to mean the forward action bolt, nearest the recoil lug....and the trigger guard bolt refers to the rear action bolt....? It makes sense. Loosen or tighten the forward action bolt would put less/more pressure on the "speed bumps" barrel pressure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GreyFox Report post Posted August 18, 2016 Shoot it. If it doesn't shoot worth a darn with the "speed bumps" as guys call em, sand em down. Is there a bad consequence to sanding it down anyway, to float the barrel? A floated barrel is a good thing...right? Yes and No, depends (How's that for an answer!!) Remington piller beds; that's what those bumps are, cheaper way to piller bed it, Shoot it for accuracy, also, take a screwdriver or torx or allen (whatever is on the gun) and try slightly adjusting the tension on the action, Sometimes just a tweak on the recoil or trigger guard will change POI and tighten or spread groups. Free floating is typically better BUT if the stock is flimsy at the forend and you rest it on a rock you've just created a pressure point you did not have during sighting in. I've had bad luck with B&C stocks too much play at recoil to the point of shearing a bolt after 3 shots, LITERALLY I threw the stock in the trash, then took it out and stuck it in a corner. When I started 'smithing I needed experience glass bedding so I did, WHAT A DIFFERENCE, it's now on my go to deer rifle (SAKO 243). Yours seems to fit better than mine, but still check the spacing around the recoil lug and bolt or be prepared to cuss and visit a smith to have the recoil bolt removed - not an easy or cheap task. Mine was off center and about twice too large but I didn't notice it. What is a recoil bolt? Is it specific to Sako? Recoil Bolt on the recoil lug, the forward action screw. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRDATR Report post Posted August 18, 2016 So the spacing was off for the action bolts and you had to have the front hole re-done? Or was it just too big making it sloppy or was the cutout for the lug too big? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Viper Report post Posted August 19, 2016 I checked the fit of the recoil lug. The lug fits tight against the aluminum block and the bolt holes are lined up, so it should be good without bedding, unless there are accuracy issues. There is a lot of space forward of the lug. If I do decide to bed the lug, what epoxy is recommended? They all seem to have mixed reviews. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
