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creed_az_88

What's wrong with my truck?

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Hope you got the codes before disconnecting the batteries. Did you clean the EGR?

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Where did you get fuel? They have had bad fuel a few times lately? Almost sounds like unleaded fuel contamination. My mechanic is in wickenburg and is honest if needed. Others than that deer valley diesel gets decent reviews.

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Creed, Joe Long in Willcox is as honest as they come and a very good mechanic.

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I haven't cleaned the egr and I got fuel at the only gas station In sunsites where I always get fuel. I haven't had time to really do anything other than replace the cac boot. Unfortunately I didn't get the codes before I unhooked the batteries but I did start the truck again afterwards and let it run of a bit, although It ran like crap. The check engine light has yet to come on. I leave tomorrow for an elk hunt so the ol ford is gonna have to sit out of commission for a week or two before I can tend to it. A dirty egr valve is a possibility and It probably needs cleaned anyways. I'm just not sure a dirty egr would cause te electrical issues I seem to be having. I think the two issues are related somehow and I very well could be wrong. Phil, I'll look Into joe long thanks. Once again, thanks for all the comments and I'll let everybody know how this whole thing turns out.

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Since you didn't have electrical issues prior to the breakdown, I think the disconnecting of the batteries did it, sounds like a bad or weak ground. If the fuel was contaminated, there's a warning light for that.

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Telling if the EGR cooler is bad is not difficult(you already seen the white smoke which is a sign of that or blown head gasket) ... Of course the next thing you want to note is the D-gas bottle/overflow and if you are losing coolant without seeing leaks... the best way to tell if the cooler is bad is just pule the EGR valve... It should have nice dry carbon deposits from exhaust if it has sludge or looks super clean ( like it has been steam cleaned ) you have a bad EGR cooler... In that motor a bad EGR cooler is often the culprit for leading to faulty injectors as has happened twice on friends 6.0 engines. Both time trucks were under load and off on long trips where the bad EGR cooler led to injectors failing and ending up on side of road with the same issues you put in your OP. The Turbo may cause a loss of power but should not cause what you had happen. Oil coolers do not always fail before the EGR cooler but when upgrading to something like Bullet proof it is just better to do both for piece of mind. If I had to bet your EGR was going bad and that led to failing injectors and if like in my cousins case blowing a head gasket in the process of trying to limp to safe pull off. Those engine are notorious for these issues and is why going Bullet Proof is IMO the best thing you can do on a 6.0 you are keeping that is out of warranty.

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EGR cooler dumped on my 6.o at 25000 miles on the way back from 12AW. White smoke and it eventually died and would not run at all. After that at 105000 the headgaskets blew so I had Strictly diesel bulletproof it for $9000. a year later the headgaskets blew up again and they wanted $10000 more. I dumped it for $7000. I had a Bulletproof cooler, ARP studs and the whole works. In betweeen had a fuel pump, oil cooler and a few other problems for $4000. Just a lousy engine and no guarantees if you pay to bulletproof it.

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Bulletproof is great but in AZ where it is extremely hot, not the best IMO. There is a IPR Kit that uses the factory oil cooler but has a modification so that the oil cooler is mounted in a place that is easy to get at from under the hood. That way when the $300 piece goes bad like we all know they will, a monkey can fix it in a driveway rather than pay $1000 in labor. I feel your pain, I am replacing an oil cooler on Monday.. I personally love these 6.0's but they are very picky.. Fluids and Filters need to be closely watched and used properly. If you try to save $30 on a filter or cooliant, it just may cost $2000 soon after. Good Luck again and let us know what happens!

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I fixed my truck with egr delete and external oil cooler for 2800.00 with labor. No issues so far since and I have 200,000. Miles on it. Only thing is some times after a long drive it will have a rough idle for a few minutes but it goes away after a few street lights. Anyone ever have a rough idle issue on 6.0?

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I had every problem in this topic. I put some money into it, just to sell it. Buyer beware. The 6.0 is crap , you can buy a new truck and save money by the time your done with that crap.

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Mikes truck runs better at 200K than mine did new, it's a beast.

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Not to Hijack this thread but you guys have offered some great information. I know the 6.7 is relatively new but anyone have any issues with it?

I have over 100K on one with out so much as a sputter. I have another at work with 140K and only had to replace the EGT sensors. I absolutely love them.

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