Xnt Report post Posted August 18, 2015 more info, please. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rcdinaz Report post Posted August 19, 2015 You could always go with Burris Signature rings which are self centering (with in reason). The bases are cheap two but after spending a good chunk on your scope I would get a 1pc base. You have a scope with a 1" tube so that part is easy enough. You can actually get a dowel (Ace, Home Depot) or pc of bar stock from the scrap bin at a metal supplier and line the rings up on your own. They make a tool for this and it is really nice to have but not necessary if this is a one time thing for you. You were already on Midway so this would make it easy: EGW Base: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/434640/egw-1-piece-picatinny-style-base-remington-700-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding Make sure you by the base for your action long or short, otherwise you will spend 30 minutes or more trying to figure out why the @$#! holes don't line up. Rings: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1548661544/burris-1-signature-zee-weaver-style-rings?cm_vc=ProductFinding Now level the scope, all you need is a small level to set on the top scope cap. FYI... your iPhone or Android have a very good level in them and the cases are machined and square, the apps are free. So no excuse, but investing in a level is a good idea anyway. A Wheeler kit costs $15 on Amazon, you need it anyway if you ever have to re-zero, buy a new scope, etc so don't be cheap with your $900 scope. Directions on leveling: http://www.shootingillustrated.com/articles/2013/7/19/leveling-riflescopes/ Check your level with your eye using a plumb bob, make sure it has not moved when you tighten everything down. DO NOT crank it like the Hulk or you may bend, dent, your new scope. There are torque specs look them up not a good idea to take someones advice on torque, if you don't have a torque wrench then buy one or borrow one. You should be using one on the bases as well. You can literally do this in 15-20 minutes and you will forever know how it is done and have the ability to make a change in the field or help out a buddy. For $100 you can buy everything you need base, rings, wrench, level (well the wrench may put you over a little). Good luck! Gitter' Done! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10Turkeys Report post Posted August 19, 2015 This is just my opinion and everyone knows what that is worth. The guys that are working at SW aren't all savy riflemen, most were probably flipping burgers or changing oil a couple of days before standing behind a gun counter. About three years ago at our sight in service at Ben Avery we had at least 4 guys who had just bought their gun at SW and had their scope mounted and bore sighted. Well guess what their bolts wouldn't close. The clerk at the store mixed up the front and rear screws for the bases and the long screws were preventing the bolt from closing. Another tip other than third horse fourth race, when a clerk bore sights that scope for you it basically means that if your shooting into a mountain its going to hit it somewhere, don't take it that it is ready to go hunting. Another tip after the the scope is mounted and sighted in take some finger nail polish and paint around the scope and bases. If the finger nail polish splits or cracks the scope has moved from coming loose or being dropped, it will also give you a starting point where to put the scope to be remounted or re sighted in. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
khmer6 Report post Posted August 19, 2015 This is just my opinion and everyone knows what that is worth. The guys that are working at SW aren't all savy riflemen, most were probably flipping burgers or changing oil a couple of days before standing behind a gun counter. About three years ago at our sight in service at Ben Avery we had at least 4 guys who had just bought their gun at SW and had their scope mounted and bore sighted. Well guess what their bolts wouldn't close. The clerk at the store mixed up the front and rear screws for the bases and the long screws were preventing the bolt from closing. Another tip other than third horse fourth race, when a clerk bore sights that scope for you it basically means that if your shooting into a mountain its going to hit it somewhere, don't take it that it is ready to go hunting. Another tip after the the scope is mounted and sighted in take some finger nail polish and paint around the scope and bases. If the finger nail polish splits or cracks the scope has moved from coming loose or being dropped, it will also give you a starting point where to put the scope to be remounted or re sighted in.Exactly!!! Not like they go through much or hire special people. Everyone rags on walmart and the dumb people behind the gun counter who doesn't have a clue. It's the same crap at other big box stores that sell guns....who's suppose to have specialty people. I don't care wtf they know. Do my research before hand and I am only in the store to make a transaction not to listen to what some burger flipper or jiffy lube guy has to tell me. And to pay their mark up over walmart for the "specially trained" staff that is suppose to help you. No thnk you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach Report post Posted August 19, 2015 I'm becoming a quick fan of DNZ One Piece rifle scope mounts. It just makes sense to have a one-piece mount. No lining up the front and rear - very solid machined mounts, IMO. http://www.dnzproducts.com/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRDATR Report post Posted August 19, 2015 I mounted a scope on a Savage 110 a couple of years ago and used the Burris Zee Rings and it worked great and I would use them again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
