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coueser4

Want to get into reloading

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I would suggest taking a look at this site for some helpful info. www. handloadersbench. com I have been learning to reload and have had tons of help from that site such as setup, data, and tips and tricks. I reload .308, 30.06 and 9mm to start.

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If you are thinking reloading will save money, you are wrong. Even though it costs less per round to reload, reloading often make a person shoot more. It is addictive to shoot small groups and you will find that more often you will be making trips to the range.

 

If you want the most performance from any gun, you are right on the money there. Once a good load has been developed, you can stick with it and it will not shoot as good from anything else. Another thing reloading does is makes just about anyone a better shooter, with all of the rounds fired during load developement you will get fine tuned yourself in the shot process, not just pulling the trigger.

 

As far as getting into reloading, most of the stuff you need is in a starter kit. After that you will at minimum need dies, and components, also a case trimmer and lube. You can get the Lee case trimmers pretty cheap and they work ok, but a good trimmer is around $100. For lule I use the waxes, a can lasts forever and go on thin so the cases wont dimple on the shoulder.

 

There are also tools that you dont need, but help a lot, and they are a tumbler, primer pocket brushes and a flash hole cutter. Out af all of these I use my tumbler the most, I like purdy brass. I havent cleaned a primer pocket in a long time and rarely use the flash hole tool, I did some testing with a gun vise and a solid bench at 500 yards and found that it really didnt make much difference in accuracy.

 

Another good tool to have is a seasoned reloader to help you the first time, it cuts the learning curve a lot. They will help you get a system down to make the reloading faster and as safe as possible.

 

The most important thing to reloading I have found is a comfortable reloading chair, you will likely spend a couple or more hors at a time reloading each time. Find one that you can spend a while in before you have to get up. I use a nice soft office chair with an adjustable lumbar support and armrests. My old chair was just an old computer chair and it made reloading feel almost like a chore. Now I can sit back and reload boxes and boxes of bullets in one sitting and it has sped up my reloading because I dont need a break as often.

 

For anyone that wants a little more out of any firearm, reloading is one of the biggest steps to get it, and it is a lot of fun to see what handloads can do. It can turn a decent shooting rifle into a great shooting rifle.

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I started reloadimg just about 2 years ago. My dad wanted me to start reloading so he bought me the RCBS starter kit it had almost everything needed. I have also added a RCBS trickler, Lee case trimers (only because they are cheeper then an elect. one) a hornandy mic. ,case tumbler, one shot spray lube. What I found to help is read some books but then have someone show you how.

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Don't forget a bullet puller to fix your mistakes. They have press mounted ones or hollowed out plastic hammer ones. A must have for your bench.

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Don't forget a bullet puller to fix your mistakes. They have press mounted ones or hollowed out plastic hammer ones. A must have for your bench.

And put a cotton ball in the end to protect the bullet tip.

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Don't forget a bullet puller to fix your mistakes. They have press mounted ones or hollowed out plastic hammer ones. A must have for your bench.

And put a cotton ball in the end to protect the bullet tip.

+1 on the puller. Never tnought about the cotton ball I have tossed out close to 12 bullets

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For rifle loads, forget the inetia puller (hammer), put the money down for a collet puller. Just about a moth ago I had to pull a 50 round box of bullets (old loads that were ok shooters, but found magic load). Thought about using Thors hammer and decided to buy a collet puller and cant be happier- no more sweating, no mo cussing, and all that is needed is the die ($30) and a collet for each caliber ( about $10). Works SO MUCH better and doesnt even mark the bullets. I used to use THE HAMMER till I got the collet puller, it is faster, easier and wont even start to deform a bullet, like an inertia puller did (my hammer still deformed polymer tips with a piece of leather and cotton at the base).

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For rifle loads, forget the inetia puller (hammer), put the money down for a collet puller. Just about a moth ago I had to pull a 50 round box of bullets (old loads that were ok shooters, but found magic load). Thought about using Thors hammer and decided to buy a collet puller and cant be happier- no more sweating, no mo cussing, and all that is needed is the die ($30) and a collet for each caliber ( about $10). Works SO MUCH better and doesnt even mark the bullets. I used to use THE HAMMER till I got the collet puller, it is faster, easier and wont even start to deform a bullet, like an inertia puller did (my hammer still deformed polymer tips with a piece of leather and cotton at the base).

It sounds like you're doing it wrong with the inertia puller. 3 whacks and the bullet should be free.

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For rifle loads, forget the inetia puller (hammer), put the money down for a collet puller. Just about a moth ago I had to pull a 50 round box of bullets (old loads that were ok shooters, but found magic load). Thought about using Thors hammer and decided to buy a collet puller and cant be happier- no more sweating, no mo cussing, and all that is needed is the die ($30) and a collet for each caliber ( about $10). Works SO MUCH better and doesnt even mark the bullets. I used to use THE HAMMER till I got the collet puller, it is faster, easier and wont even start to deform a bullet, like an inertia puller did (my hammer still deformed polymer tips with a piece of leather and cotton at the base).

It sounds like you're doing it wrong with the inertia puller. 3 whacks and the bullet should be free.

firstcoueswas80, he didnt say that it was'nt effective? He said "no more sweating, no mo cussing". +1 on the collet puller. Those inertia hammers are weak and just dont hold up over time. They are made of plastic and eventually break not to mention they take longer to load the round and remove the bullet as opposed to the collet puller.

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Ghosthunter is right on the money, they are effective, but the collet is much nicer to use. I have broke one inertia puller and the other is on its way out, so I got the collet puller and wonder why I didnt do it sooner. I still have a use for the hammer, pistol rounds. A lot of pistol bullets have an ogive that is shaped where the collet cant grab them. Most fmj and hollow points work with the collets, but semi wadcutters and lead wont. Pulling bullets is just part of reloading.

 

The reason I have pulled so many bullets in the past is I had someone give me a bunch of rounds for a couple of the guns that I have but were reloaded for his rifles, I pulled all of the bullets and started over with the powder charge because his loads were a grain heavier on one and two grains on the other than what my rifles like. Both loads were the same powder and bullets, just a little more powder. Wish I had the collet then.

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Great advice everyone. Appreciate all the comments made! I'm still looking to find a press for a decent price. I may already be addicted to it because I have been non stop researching, reading and watching reviews and tips and tricks of the trade. I'm very intrigued by it all. Looking to get started with it all for as low of a cost as I can find.

 

In regards to powder selection. What makes you decide what powder you want to use? Is it possible to get a powder that works for a couple calibers? I want to shoot what my gun will like as well as get most velocity I can while maintaining the sweet spot. Does the different powder types would influence this?

 

Case trimming question. What trimmer have you found to work most efficiently in regards to consistency, speed and minimal manual stress? I'm no high volume reloader and probly won't be for a while but want to think in the long run for these purchases.

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Most load books will tell you what powder worked the best for there bullets. I reload Hornandy bullets and out of the five that I have worked up loads for what powder worked best for them worked best for my guns. Looking at what you want to load for not sure if one powder will work more then one. I load for .270, 25-06, 22-250, 30-06, and 300 win. I only need three powders. I would say get the load books for what bullets you wanna load and look for the powders there. The lee trimers don't cost much and don't take much to trim the case down

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All of your calibers (223, 270, 7-08) could probably be loaded with the same powder with certain limitations. You would need a medium burn rate powder such as 8208xbr, 4064, 4350, 4895, or varget. This would give you decent velocity with those cartridges. The 270 needs a slower burning powder when using heavy for caliber bullets (150gr and above) to achieve maximum performance. It might be easier to decide which bullets you want to use before you pick a powder.

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Like Wayno said, figure out the bullet weights you want to run for each caliber, then powder choice is easier. Go to Hodgdens website and look at loads for each caliber, find a powder that turns good speed and lower pressures for that speed and compare all calibers for the bullet weight you want to run. You may end up with two or more powders if you want a light for caliber bullet in one gun and a heavy for caliber bullet in another, but it is possible to get one that works for all. Bullet weights are only compairable in that specific caliber. For example, on my 30Ackley type II a 180 grain bullet is a lighter bullet, but for a 308 it is a heavier bullet. Also for the Ackley I run H4831, but if I were to go to 200gr or more I would be better suited with something like Retumbo.

 

One thing that I like to do also is find a powder that pretty much fills the case when loaded. Most of the extruded powders will do this, but dont meter as well through a thrower.

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