codyhuntsaz

Anyone got a hook up?? If not I’m looking for either some 33-12.50-20 or 285-60-20. Or somewhere in that neighborhood. I would also do a wheel and tire combo of a different wheel size. These will be for a 2013 F150 with a 6x135 bolt pattern. New or used with decent tread will work.

His G7 BR2 rangefinder would have accounted for that and gave the correct dope.

The read out on that range finder is in MOA. It’s gives you the yardage and under that the MOA to dial up or down. In his case 400 yards should have told him + 4.0 MOA….give or take.

I have the same range finder and just took my buck in Colorado at 530 yards, worked like a charm. 2 things I can think of…..I’ve heard that these can develop a “beam divergence.” Meaning, you’re aiming the box at your target, but that’s not actually where the laser is going. Possibly ranging something further. When it gave you the dial to MOA, didn’t that immediately send up a red flag? If I ranged 400 and it told me to dial up 18.2 MOA (example) I would have immediately known something was wrong, should be closer to 3.5 or so. The only other thing that will give you drastically different outputs would be your G1, G7 input. If you’re shooting a bullet with a G7 drag and you enter it as a G1 drag, it will have you dial up significantly more MOA.

The 1” high at 200 was using the fps from the box of ammo (not actual fps)and the info my RF spit out (with a faulty fps and BC), basically useless info. These are Winchester deer season XP 150gr.

Thank you for checking that for me. To be honest I’ve always sighted in at 100 yards and then verify drops usually out to 300. It’s easier, for me, to get an exact zero at 100 than it is at 200. And I was under the impression that with this rangefinder it would give me the correct dope no matter what range you’re sighted in at. I did verify hits at 200 on paper and 300 on a metal plate.

Thanks for checking that for me.

I did put them into my Gunwerks rangefinder, and tested from 100 to 200…farthest I could shoot and it was about 1” high at 200 with a 100 yard zero.

Shots 1-4 were all within 20 fps of each other. Shot 5 was 50 fps slower, shot 6 was the same fps as shot 2. 3245 fps. Seems to me with 1 odd round, it would make the most sense to throw it out and average the other 5, but I’m new to all this so that’s why I’m asking. I like the idea of averaging 5 cold bore shots over the course of 5 hours, but I just don’t have the time or ammo to spare. It took me forever to acquire the ammo and my hunt is too close. If I keep all 6 shots in and average them, I get 3241….3246 was the cold bore fps. If I throw out the “flyer” it averages at 3251. If I split the difference of the 6 shot group with the oddball (3241 and without the oddball 3251) I would get 3246. Which is the cold bore first shot fps. If any of that makes sense. Haha i would like to shoot less than 500 yards. It’s a Colorado mule deer hunt and I’ve yet to see the terrain, except on google earth.

I get that, but I need an average for my G7 rangefinder. By that logic I could have only shot 2 rounds and one would have been 3246 and the other 3190. Big difference there.

I’m shooting factory ammo. I’m not sure what you mean, take the first one? The first average of all 6 shots?

Obviously the more precise the better, but my question is… I put six rounds through a chronograph and five of the six were within 30 ft/s of each other and one was a little over 50 ft/s slower than the other five. If I average out the six I get 3241 ft/s if I throw out the odd one that was quite a bit more off I get 3251 ft/s. When I put this into my ballistic rangefinder which number should I go with? Or should I split the difference? Or is that not a big enough difference to really matter?

I’ve been drunk in both! Watched the Yankees win a World Series in the one across from the MERCANTILE, not the store hahaha. And spent a New Year’s Eve in the one on the edge of town.

Bump

Ttt