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HuntHarder

Reloading Nickel cases

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Long story short, Guy online did not advertise they were nickel plated cases in description and upon arrival they are. I usually shoot Winchester brass, and now I obtained some Winchester nickel plated casings. Will I see a difference in POI? I know they are a little harder on my dies, but I was wondering if my accuracy will suffer? These will only be practice rounds loaded to same specs as my hunting rounds. Should I limit my distance with these? Thanks for any advice.

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I have used nickel once. The necks were rough and therefor the extreme spreads were all over the place. I will never use it again for a longrange rig.

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I have to use both for my 243 wssm and have never seen a change

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Lance, I have read in several place that you should never anneal nickel plated brass. The same process that softens and restores brass will harden nickel....or so the articles said.

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Thanks for your answers, I think I will just load them up and see what happens. I thought about just selling the cases and getting brass.

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I am with you on that Lance. I found about the same results 50/50 split. I am going to load them, use them for practice and ditch them as soon as they start showing any signs.

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Lance, I have read in several place that you should never anneal nickel plated brass. The same process that softens and restores brass will harden nickel....or so the articles said.

Good to know. I have never heard that. Maybe that is one of the biggest reasons they say nickel cases do not last very long. I know most people have the necks split after a few loadings.

 

Great info!

 

Split necks was my experience with nickel cases, the cases didnt last as long as brass.

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If you can't return it I am pretty sure you will get 3-4 loadings out of them anyway unless for some reason they are a big magnum caliber. I have used them in the past in .243 and not major issues.

 

Also, it depends on which die and what material if it will wear your die faster. Most of us don't shoot enough to wear out a set of dies. Not saying you don't, just most of us don't shoot that much unless it is something like an AR.

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I only paid 30$ for the brass, it is not worth my time or hassle to send them back. I told the guy I was unhappy, he apologized and we left it at that. No big deal, just learned to get pictures of items being bought off of forums instead of taking a guy's word.

 

I doubt I will ever shoot this 300 wsm enough to wear out my RCBS dies. Thanks for the advice guys

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I am not sure if it was a coincidence or because of the nickel, but I had my first stuck case in the die in a long time today. It was a nickel case and oh yeah that was a PITA to remove. Noticeably more effort to size on the nickel too, but that could have been because they were fired In a different gun other than mine.

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I have loaded and fired them with max. and just under max. handloads for years with no problems. They are harder due to the nickel wash, and to me this has been most noticeable during trimming, chamfering and deburring. Just slow down during these steps. The advantages are 1. they seem to be easier to keep clean; 2. they are easy to find after you fire them at game; and 3. if you have other similar calibers ('06 based like a .270 for example), you know what you are grabbing if you see that shiny metallic flash. I only use them for hunting in my .25-06, and they have been fine. If you want true premium brass, be prepared to pay for Nosler, Lapua, or Norma. This is all GOOD stuff, and worth the extra $$ IMO.

 

I think commercial brass in general, like .22 rimfire ammo, has deteriorated in terms of QC over the last generation or so.

 

forepaw

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Hard- i use nickel in mostly in calibers i can't get lapua; like the .280 remington. i have had excellent results and i pay more for it. i shoot it in my garands. it is easier to find and it distinguishes my brass from others at a match. i tumble it before and after sizing . i camfer the inside and outside of the case necks well . loaded with a ballistic silvertip the ammo is quite attractive too.

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