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What do you gain by moving from an entry level bow to a high end set up

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Ok so I have been bow hunting the past two years only. I'm more of a rifle hunter. But I've chased the same Muley buck that past two January ruts with lots of fun but no harvest yet. And without an elk tag this year I want to focus on the aug deer bow hunt. Last year I hunted it in the desert and it was awful. Little movement to hot and just no fun. So I plan to start this month working on finding a spot that I can set cameras and scout and hunt this August in some cooler climat.

 

Anyway I have an entry level pse 3G bow I did put a nicer drop away rest on it and a five pin sight instead of the three over the past two years. I I shoot it fairly often and I'm confident to 50. I spread out at fifty. Forty and under I group real well.

 

So I guees what do I gain by going to a shop and getting set up in a 800 to 1000 rig? Distance? Is that the number benefit? The bow I have seems fast. I suppose I wouldn't really know but I guess if I practiced it should reach out to 70 yards.

Anyway I'm not looking to just burn money I just want to really focus on bow this year and thought I'd ask advice

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I had a PSE Nova for over a decade, until I bought a Bowtech Destroyer 350 LE about a year-and-a-half ago. With my Nova, my comfort range was 40 yards, and 50 yards was risky, much like you stated. With my new bow (and shooting practice twice a week for an hour), I improved my effective shooting range to 80 yards within a month. Thus, the new technology, combined with dedicated practice, doubled my confidence range! In addition, at 40 yards, my Nova was launching arrows with an arc into the sky. With my Destroyer, arrows fly flat with little to no arc even out to about 60 yards.

 

That being said, I have tagged one bear and two javelina with my updated bow, with all shots being under 40 yards. So, I have not had to use the additional range the updated bow has given me....yet.

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Newer bows are definitely faster, smooth, and quieter. This will help you draw easier, shoot further, and speed helps with more accuracy in some instances. As kidso stated an older slower bow trajectory is huge at 40 yds. A slight misjudge in distance could mean a miss. With a faster bow if the deer steps away a couple yds it isnt gonna matter much at 40-50 yds. Your arrow will stil find its mark.

I have had many bows since i was a kid and the newer bows are so much better in every aspect. The smooth draw and quiet release is amazing compared to my old pse's. The speed is not even comparable. Shooting an actual arrow at 310 fps instead of 250 fps is a night and day difference. And my 310 fps arrow is much quiter than my older, slower bows as well. So you gain a little of everything and lose nothing by going to a newer bow. And you sont even have to spend 800-1000 you can buy the middle of the line bows for 600-800 and still be ahead of where you are now with your old pse

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Or buy a used one from archerytalk for $450 like i do and have it all for half price. I usually buy a year old bow there for 400-500. That way i get to try many bows out and actually use them/hunt with them before i form an opinion. Much better than shooting one a a shop for 10 minutes and trying to form an opinion about it.

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I used to bow hunt 8 years ago and just got back into it this last year. Bows are like computers, after a few years there are lots of new up grades. I was very impressed with the new bows today. But there is a big difference between a $500 bow and a 1000 dollar bow. Last year my brother bought one of the 500 bow set up and I bought my 1100 bow set up. To say the least he wants to already up grade and he only hunted with it one season. He can only group out to 50 yards while I have no problem grouping at 60 and 70. Just my belief anything past 70 takes a lot of practice. But then agian bow hunters should always be practicing! Good luck!

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Also don't forget that the less expensive, "main line" bows will sometimes be cast aluminum instead of forged. Forged(machined) is supposed to be stronger, but I have never broken, or seen a broken cast riser. G5 Prime risers supposedly are strong enough to lift a Jeep, but who the heck is going to do that with their bow? The machining and finish with be a little less detailed on the less expensive bows, and they will usually have "last years technology" in terms of cams, cable guards, etc. Nothing wrong at all with these bows, in fact, most all of the big name manufacturers have main line bows that you would be hard pressed to find the differences between those and their top tier bows. Just remember, a high tech bow from 10 or 20 years ago shooting fat aluminum arrows at 270 fps could kill deer just as dead back then as a PSE Full Throttle at 370 fps does today.

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I used to bow hunt 8 years ago and just got back into it this last year. Bows are like computers, after a few years there are lots of new up grades. I was very impressed with the new bows today. But there is a big difference between a $500 bow and a 1000 dollar bow. Last year my brother bought one of the 500 bow set up and I bought my 1100 bow set up. To say the least he wants to already up grade and he only hunted with it one season. He can only group out to 50 yards while I have no problem grouping at 60 and 70. Just my belief anything past 70 takes a lot of practice. But then agian bow hunters should always be practicing! Good luck!

 

I shoot a Bowtech Asassin 500-600 dollar compound bow and I can group 60 yard shots.. I got the black gold Ascent so its set up to 20,30,40,50,60 yards ... I doubt anyone hunting would take more than a 70 yard shot anyway..

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For my "main line" $350 Bear, I have practiced for years to what I believe is its potential and I group well out to 60 yards, that's my current limit on live game. I can honestly say I have missed out on several opportunities where I wish I could have stretched that out to 75 yards (especially on the late bull hunts), but my bow just doesn't group well enough.

 

I know that if I want to shoot further I will need to get a flatter, faster, more expensive setup. That time will come, but as stated by another above, my so called average speed (~275fps) and heavy arrow w/broadhead (450gr) is plenty for me and the 3 deer that have efficiently hit the dirt the last 3 years.

 

 

I shoot a Bowtech Asassin 500-600 dollar compound bow and I can group 60 yard shots.. I got the black gold Ascent so its set up to 20,30,40,50,60 yards ... I doubt anyone hunting would take more than a 70 yard shot anyway..

 

 

Nowadays "doubt anyone" and "hunting" are tough to use in the same sentence. People are shooting a lot farther than 70 yards.

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I'm starting to work 80 yards with my new Hoyt and 90 if the breeze is non-existent. 60 used to be far, now 60 is what 40 used to be. 80 is what 60 used to be. Etc. It comes at a price however… cha ching. The biggest advantage I see besides the joy of how new bows shoot, is the flatter trajectory.

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Ok so I have been bow hunting the past two years only. I'm more of a rifle hunter. But I've chased the same Muley buck that past two January ruts with lots of fun but no harvest yet. And without an elk tag this year I want to focus on the aug deer bow hunt. Last year I hunted it in the desert and it was awful. Little movement to hot and just no fun. So I plan to start this month working on finding a spot that I can set cameras and scout and hunt this August in some cooler climat.

 

Anyway I have an entry level pse 3G bow I did put a nicer drop away rest on it and a five pin sight instead of the three over the past two years. I I shoot it fairly often and I'm confident to 50. I spread out at fifty. Forty and under I group real well.

 

So I guees what do I gain by going to a shop and getting set up in a 800 to 1000 rig? Distance? Is that the number benefit? The bow I have seems fast. I suppose I wouldn't really know but I guess if I practiced it should reach out to 70 yards.

Anyway I'm not looking to just burn money I just want to really focus on bow this year and thought I'd ask advice

So I am no archery expert but in my opinion I got a smooth accurate easy to shoot bow. I bought a new 2013 Hoyt Charger. I have no idea how fast it shoots since I increased the draw weight to 68#. I love it but I have not shot anything else but a PSE. I will not say one brand is better than another since I do not have the experience with other bows. It seems like you have the sight, rest, release?, and arrows for your draw weight and length. I bought my basic bow in 2013 for $549 and by the time I got done adding all the goodies it was just over $800. So the only reason I can see you upgrading is to get a smoother, more advanced bow that might increase your accuracy distance. Practice is the key and I am lucky to have set up a bow range in my back yard to 70 yards and shoot daily from March to October. I can group out to 70 yards but I got into bow hunting because I started stretching the muzzle loader out to 200 yards rather than under 100.

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The Hoyt Charger is what I have. It shoots great. The only way you can know if you can do the long shot, when you head to the range and shoot your most capable longshot first! Because when you're out in the field you don't have much time to practice long-range shots. So if you could hit vitals on your farthest shot on the first shot, that means you practice enough that you feel comfortable at that range. If you're trying 70 yards but you can never do it, but you do 60 yards just fine the first shot, then that is your max. I've seen people do very well at 80-90yards. That's why I always practice from my father shot to my shortest shot. But like I said I just got back in the hunting of archery as well so take my word lightly

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Or buy a used one from archerytalk for $450 like i do and have it all for half price. I usually buy a year old bow there for 400-500. That way i get to try many bows out and actually use them/hunt with them before i form an opinion. Much better than shooting one a a shop for 10 minutes and trying to form an opinion about it.

+1, Bows do not hold their value well at all. Top of the line bows sell for 40% of original cost, often set up with nice accessories. 2-3 year old bows retain some value. Older equipment is difficult to market. Most want the latest & greatest.

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Just remember that even though it may be an entry level bow not very many years ago it was the top of the line bow. Technology is crazy. I usually buy a new bow every time I draw a bull tag. It has been 4 years now. I shoot the Hoyt Rampage and love it. When I get my next archery tag I will upgrade again.

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+1 on buying last years bows. Guys on Archerytalk buy a new bow every year. You can get great deals and still get the latest technology. Buy used until you figure out what you like

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At the very least your wallet won't hurt when you sit down! Lol

 

All comes back to the hunter and his skills!

I used to buy a new bow every year! I think a new bow every 5 years based technology advancement is good!

 

In saying that I waited way to long to buy my last bow. Like 14 years but that was a mistake !I drew plenty of blood with it! When I got my Elite with every bell and whistle on it I could get. HUGE Difference! Sweetest bow I have ever shot!

I have about $1800+ from top to bottom .

I traded my part out for floorcovering and labor so it didn't hurt so bad! Well OK the labor still hurts. Ouch my aching back! Lol!

The Pain was worth the Gain!

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