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Bryce

Do you have a slide out on the right side?

Most of the lights in an RV are 12 volt but not always.

I'll post more after I get to work.

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I thought I would bring this thread back up for our new members.

 

Amanda,

Can you think of a better name for this thread

so it can be found in a search?

RV and 101 do not have 4 letters :(

 

 

I pinned the topic so it will be easier to find. We could call it recreational vehicles or something like that, but who would type that into a search engine? So not sure what would be better.

 

Amanda

 

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It is a 30 footer with no slide.

 

The converter is made by Magnetek B-W Manufacturing.

 

You are right, the lights are not 110.

 

6300 series?

there is an upgrade converter kit to 7300.

The black (hot) 110 wire going to the breaker

may have a little pigtail coming off of it

is there another wire, wire nutted to it?

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It is a 30 footer with no slide.

 

The converter is made by Magnetek B-W Manufacturing.

 

You are right, the lights are not 110.

 

6300 series?

there is an upgrade converter kit to 7300.

The black (hot) 110 wire going to the breaker

may have a little pigtail coming off of it

is there another wire, wire nutted to it?

 

The model number is TU-740-2.

It has a red (hot) and white wire running from it as well as a bare copper ground. The red wire runs into the wall in the direction of the breaker and a pigtail off of that runs to the battery and then to a wire bundle that runs into the wall towards the front of the trailer?

 

 

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Sounds to me like the converter is not built into the power distribution center

but a separate unit/ free standing.

 

Try unplugging the converter and see if the circuit breaker still trips.

If not we know that is what is tripping it

 

We can replace the unit with a new style 7400 series

45 amp model.

Retail is 217.00 but I offer a 15% discount to members

so the cost would be 184.45 + tax

 

Let me know if that fixes the breaker problem

 

by the way the new converter measures

4-1/8HX7WX12-3/8L

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Dear GameHauler,

 

Need some help/advice. This weekend I hit a tree branch with my popup which resulted in a hold about the size of a fist in the front panel, no other damage. What is the best way to repair?

 

Thanks Redman

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Dear GameHauler,

 

Need some help/advice. This weekend I hit a tree branch with my popup which resulted in a hold about the size of a fist in the front panel, no other damage. What is the best way to repair?

 

Thanks Redman

 

 

I really don't do body work.

Is it aluminum or fiberglass?

 

Put a CWT.com sticker over it ;)

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Dear GameHauler,

 

Need some help/advice. This weekend I hit a tree branch with my popup which resulted in a hold about the size of a fist in the front panel, no other damage. What is the best way to repair?

 

Thanks Redman

 

 

I really don't do body work.

Is it aluminum or fiberglass?

 

Put a CWT.com sticker over it ;)

 

 

LOL!! Good one Gamehauler!!

 

Amanda

 

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Hope this is still active. I have a 2006 28' Sandpiper toyhauler. My rear beds have a gear mechanism that was made out of nylon and 2 of the teeth have sheared off. I have gotten a quote to replace the gears. $580. from the dealer and a quote to have the gear made from a machinist $450. I do not know the maker of the beds. Got any ideas, I thought about having the gear made in aluminum to strengthen it, or can the nylon be made in a stronger compound? Have you seen this often and would it be benificial to make multiple and sell??? Lots of questions

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I know it does happen but I have not found a source for parts yet.

I think the manufacturer is contracted to only sell to the dealers.

Sorry I could not help more.

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So what do you think about the gear being made out of aluminum? Or is there different grades of nylon to get a stronger gear made?

 

My last metallurgy class was in 1979 so I really can not say what would be best :(

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