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apache12

First load. Should I throw this out?

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So some may remember from earlier post that I'm a new hand loader

 

I loaded up a accubound 140 grain with h4831sc at 54 56 and 58. 270 win

 

I shoot a 24 inch weatherby bedded and floated

My buddy shoots a Winchester 70 24 inch barrel bedded and floated

 

We shot of a rest at only 100

 

Somewhat strange results we both shot almost exact groups but on different impact points on the paper

And the groups were not I pressive

2 we moa or a bit under and one was always 2 inch flyer

 

We shot cool barrel and it was Thursday so nice out

And the flyer was random. Not the first or last bullet

 

Each gun had different velocity too

His 200 for faster at the 54 gr and then he didn't increase much on higher loads and mine did increase to were I was faster at the higher grain

 

Anyway were aren't pros at loading but we both shoot decent and of a rest I'd hope for better results

 

So my question is should I just continue with the powder and bullet at .5 increment changes

Or try a totally different load?

We have some 130 hdy sp and spritzer 130 bt. And some imr 4350 and imr 4831

 

Is better to first try lots of differnt and then when you find a good one dial it in

Or am I'm giving up to early on the accubound 140 and h4831sc?

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I usually try to find the max load my rifle will handle before showing pressure signs then work down from there .5 grains at a time.

 

Take care to make sure your seating depth is very consistent. You will get very frustrated if you don't. Measure every time you seat a bullet. They won't all seat the same depth even from the same box.

 

 

There are some more advanced techniques to find your "accuracy node" but you can work up to that as you progress.

 

Try develope your final load at at least 200 yards. Also if you plan to hunt with a bipod on your rifle it can sometimes shoot differently than off sand bags.

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Interesting. I didn't measure each cartridge and I did notice a difference in chambering some rounds.

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My rifle accuracy changes a bunch from just .5 gns of pwder. At 56 gns I shoot 1/2 moa. at 56.5 its a 2 inch group. I would try smaller powder changes instead of jumping 2 gns at a time.

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Take care to make sure your seating depth is very consistent. You will get very frustrated if you don't. Measure every time you seat a bullet. They won't all seat the same depth even from the same box.

 

 

 

 

Make sure you prep/trim/measure cases before you load them up too. If you have inconsistent OACL it could be the culprit for what you are describing.

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Interesting. I didn't measure each cartridge and I did notice a difference in chambering some rounds.

This may make a bigger difference than any other variable. Bullet seating depth and OAL can change a 1/4" MPA round to a 2" MOA round in a hurry.

 

As recommended find start with a fixed OAL usually a standard from a reloading book or other load data. Then make sure your die are screwed down tight and your rounds are consistent. If you haven't you should buy a headspace gauge set like the one in the link below. Sportsmans, Bass Pro, and Cabelas should have them on hand.

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gage-5-bushing-set-with-comparator?cm_vc=ProductFinding

 

After you settle on your powder charge then start moving the bullet out as you described. This is probably the step where the two rifles will disagree on what they like.

 

One other thought, don't mix the nice once fired brass from each rifle or you will always have to go back to a completely full length resized die for all of your loads. This shortens the life of your brass and can have small affects on accuracy compared to partially or neck sizing your brass.

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Ok so I'm clear.

 

I fix my error of seating depth and start with a standard depth and then more the bullet out from there until I find a happy length?

It what increments do I change seat depth? And with this other variable. How should I adjust amount of powder?

I mean I settle on amount of powder and then tinker with seat depth

 

I guess I'm wondering how to manage to many variable changes at one time

 

I understand I need to trim brass and clean primer hole

Set and measure bullet seat depth each time

 

But if I'm changing seat depth and powder amount at the same time I suppose I wint know what actually working

So should I focus on one change before the other

 

Thanks

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reloading can get very frustrating for a beginner if you try to do too much at once. If you are reloading and want 1/2 moa accuracy there are things you dont have to do that someone who wants 1/4 moa accuracy will do.

 

For instance, I dont worry about ideal seating depth becuase it is useless to me if i have to turn my rifle into a single shot because the bullets are too long to fit in the magazine anymore. I load to magazine length of my rifle so I can carry more rounds in the mag. I find a powder charge my gun likes and fine tune it to .1 increments and shoot at ranges out to 800 to verify the load. Doing this has always got me to 1/2 moa without even worrying about seating depth. I honestly dont care about getting it down to 1/4 moa. If you are wanting to shoot in competitions then do everything you have to for smaller groups. Most of the advice you will read online are from people who are accuracy freaks, people who love to tinker, and experienced reloaders and it can get very confusing to a beginner.

 

I am sure people on here will disagree but you have to ask yourself what your rifle is capable of and what you are happy with in a load.

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Harbor Freight has Dial calipers on sale this weekend and it will help checking everything you need if you don't have one already.

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Apache, here are few short articles worth the read:

 

http://www.bergerbullets.com/setting-loads-optimum-accuracy/

 

http://www.bergerbullets.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/COAL.pdf

 

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2009/03/berger-tips-for-loading-vld-bullets/

 

Average Joe makes a very good point! If you are loading for a set magazine length then your COAL is pretty much decided right there and you can move on to bullet choice & powder charge development.

 

One other thing. If you buy Nosler or Lapua brass it is already machine finished at the factory so the case length, mouth, and flash hole are ready to go. They cost more but seem to be very consistent and last longer which in my opinion is worth it. I have switched to Nosler brass on the two rifles we shoot the most.

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I tried a couple of powders at once. I checked the velocity, and grouping. Of course I went with the powder that gave me the most accuracy, and then velocity next. Out of he 3 powders I picked the best one and messed around with it. When I got to my finale stage and grouping 1 MOA and sometimes a flyer, and just backed off .5 grain and that did it for me. I got it at 1/2 MOA and I never get a flyer unless my barrel gets to hot, usually after the 5 shot if I decide to shoot that fast at once. That was my .270 tikka, W760 at 3000 fps. But like you I had lots of help from CWT and a friend. We also checked the OACL on each round.

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