New 6.5 SLR Build

[cohntr6]

LOL Clint.I know.

At least we agree on that .250!

Jeff

[lancetkenyon]

Brown Santa came tonight....Manners T2A Adjustable cheek Rem 700 SA right hand w. BDL.

 

 

 

 

Set the action in place....

 

 

[briant_az]

What contour barrel are you gonna be using?

[lancetkenyon]

Contour is a Rem Sendero/Varmint.

 

I also, just now, dropped the hammer on my new scope purchase!

 

Ordered a Steiner T5Xi with the SCR reticle. Liberty Optics will be the first company to receive the new scopes at the end of December, and they will ship out the beginning of January. Good thing about this Steiner model, it is made in the USA in Colorado, but uses German Schott glass. Saves a ton of $$$ on importing it from the Germany factory.

 

MSRP is $2399, MAP is $1999. Liberty has a deal for Snipershide members going on while pre-order supplies last. I am sure I can't state the price, but worth it.

 

I have been calling around, and shopping on line for a Vortex Razor Gen II 4.5-27, and NO ONE has them until April or May. It was a toss up between these two. With the pricing of the Steiner, I could not pass it up.

 

I really like the SCR reticle for windage. I dial for elevation, but the windage is great on this scope. Center X is .2 mil wide (.1 each side of vertical), then a .1 mil gap, then the other vertical tics are at .2 mil apart. Makes it easier to determine holds that the Xs at .5 mil apart.

 

@ 5X

 

@ 15X

 

@ 25X

[lancetkenyon]

What the heck, it is only money, right?

 

Just ordered:

 

Seekins 1 piece 20MOA Picatinny base

Seekins 4/6 34mm .97" high rings (4 screws rear/6 screws front)

Vortex 34mm bubble scope level

 

I am also picking up a box of 1000 Federal LR Match primers tomorrow.

[briant_az]

You're making me want to build another custom rifle! That's not good for the bank account but I got no wife to complain about it this time. Hmmm decisions decisions!

[lancetkenyon]

I decided I will do the painting of the stock myself. I have done numerous other guns on mine, so why not this one?

 

I am leaning towards either a MutiCam pattern, or a desert version of it. I will post up a poll to see what get the most votes.

 

Also, just got confirmation the dies are in shipping and should be here Monday, and base/rings/level too. Just need the scope to ship at the beginning of January sometime.

 

Here are a few teaser photos of some MultiCam and Desert MultiCam patterns to drool over.

 

MultiCam:

 

 

Desert MultiCam:

 

[briant_az]

I personally like the multicam, always have and think it looks awesome on a rifle stock!

[Zeke-BE]

I don't know!!! Just flip a coin it will look good either way

[lancetkenyon]

Happiness is a bowl full of annealed brass.

 

Dies should be here Monday, so over Christmas break, I will be resizing, cleaning, and start loading for a 400 yard ladder test as soon as the rifle is ready.

 

[cohofishing]

Do you use a annealing machine and if so, which one? If you don't, what is your annealing process?

 

Brent

[lancetkenyon]

I do it by hand. Takes between 8-10 seconds per brass.

 

What you will need:

MAP gas and torch (propane works too, but takes longer per brass)

Cordless drill

Socket big enough to hold brass in

Stainless steel bowl

 

I set up my MAP gas torch on really low. Flame about 3" long.

Put stainless bowl under torch

Put brass in cordless drill w. socket as holder

Slowly turn brass in flame for about 8-10 seconds. Make sure ONLY the neck is in the flame.

 

You can actually watch the anneal color change ring travel up the neck and shoulder. Once you see the color change at the bottom of the shoulder (where the body transitions to the shoulder angle), remove and drop into bowl to cool. Some people quench in water, I do not.

I have used this method for years. Works great. Easy, quick too. Just takes a few seconds, and you have to do the work yourself. No mechanical device to do it for you. But a lot cheaper than an annealing machine.

 

Then throw in the tumbler for an hour or so and it removes a lot of the soot from around the neck. You will still see the annealed area where the color changed slightly.

 

If you anneal BEFORE you resize, you can resize next, then tumble and load. If you anneal AFTER you resize, the brass gets a little rough feeling afterwards, so a quick tumble will help smooth it back off before final loading.

 

I annealed before I will size this brass to the new chambering to soften the neck and shoulder to make it easier to stretch the brass to the new shape.

[muledeerarea33?]

Always should anneal before sizing, makes it easier and. Less stress on the brass.. I use an old record player with a coat hanger stud in the center to spin the brass. Heat with map gas and dump intro a pale of room temp water. Cold water will brittle the brass..

[lancetkenyon]

I don't anneal after every firing though. About every other for me.

 

But I do usually anneal before sizing also.

[STOMP442]

Very similar to the process that I use. I use a Lee shell holder and lock stud from their trimmers and use that in the drill just barely finger tight. I anneal for about 8 seconds as well with a propane torch then drop the cases in an old Six Million Dollar man steel lunch box with a damp rag in the bottom to cool the brass. I anneal every 3rd firing.