zero my rife and using turrets

[muledeerhntr]

Not trying to be rude, but If you are just now trying to get this to work you are too late. Zero it for 200 and get within 300 yards. Try again next year. Sorry, you can't just look it up on the web and start shooting at living things. You did not even say what your MV or bullet BC is.

Thanks for all the posts every one, i didnt mean for it to sound like i have no trigger time ect. I have been shooting consistently since June i just haven't used my turrets or a ballistic calculator, i have been practicing out to 200 yards ALOT and can shoot a very good group..... at 315 yard my first mill dot hits every time, but i just wanted to have absolute precision and see how my groups are at 400 yards for a shot, 500 is just for my own practice and future hunting ...thank you everyone!

[lonne]

No negative intended. But my understanding, 300 win mag to 300 is not hard at all. Its one of the flatter trajectories out to 300.

 

Wind is your worst enemy.

[CouesFanatic]

Go on vortex's website and click on LRBC. You can get the distances for all of your reticles distances at all powers of your scope. You will need some info to input.

[azsugarbear]

Set your zero at 200 yds and go verify the drop chart generated by your software, The drop chart will get you close, but you will need to alter your velocity and bullet BC inputs to get the software to spit out a table that accurately portrays what your actual drops were out in the field. Then get to where the elk are for a scouting trip, or arrive a day or two before the hunt and re-zero your rifle for the hunt at the desired elevation. Your revised/corrected drop chart will still be accurate out to 500 yds. Altitude change will not make that much of a change, if you keep it under 500 yds. (Play with the software and you will see what I mean).

 

As Ionne said above, wind becomes the boogeyman for long distance shooting. Gravity is a constant and once you have it dialed in for your altitude - it doesn't change. On the other hand, wind varies greatly. It ebbs and flows. It swirls, gusts. etc. Probably best to think of it like water in a stream. It moves around objects, flows faster when funneled, moves in different directions as it encounters obstacles - you get the idea. A constant wind is rare. And a gusting or variable wind will wreak havoc on your accuracy. A wind meter is a good place to start, but it doesn't tell you what is happening down range. Watching how vegetation is reacting to the wind down range will give you some idea. But only with lots of practice in the field under different conditions will you overcome the wind. That is one thing you cannot rush.

 

If the wind stays 5 mph or under, you will probably be alright out to 500 yds - providing your reticle or windage turret allows you to make the necessary changes suggested by your ballistic software. If the wind is steady at 10 mph, or gusting - then you should limit your shots to 300 yds and under. You need to practice wind hold-off or wind correction before going on your hunt. Just like your drop chart, you need to confirm the solution it gives you.

 

What I have found is that most ballistic software overestimates what your bullet and load will do down range. I always seem to need more clicks to get to the desired distance out past 400 yds. I have also found that it underestimates the ability of your bullet to buck the wind. I rarely need to make as much correction as the software tells me I need. Maybe it is my fault in overestimating the wind? Good luck on your late hunt.

[roninflag]

what rifle? what load? what is the size of the 300, 400, 500 yard groups?

[azgutpile]

Set your zero at 200 yds and go verify the drop chart generated by your software, The drop chart will get you close, but you will need to alter your velocity and bullet BC inputs to get the software to spit out a table that accurately portrays what your actual drops were out in the field. Then get to where the elk are for a scouting trip, or arrive a day or two before the hunt and re-zero your rifle for the hunt at the desired elevation. Your revised/corrected drop chart will still be accurate out to 500 yds. Altitude change will not make that much of a change, if you keep it under 500 yds. (Play with the software and you will see what I mean).

 

As Ionne said above, wind becomes the boogeyman for long distance shooting. Gravity is a constant and once you have it dialed in for your altitude - it doesn't change. On the other hand, wind varies greatly. It ebbs and flows. It swirls, gusts. etc. Probably best to think of it like water in a stream. It moves around objects, flows faster when funneled, moves in different directions as it encounters obstacles - you get the idea. A constant wind is rare. And a gusting or variable wind will wreak havoc on your accuracy. A wind meter is a good place to start, but it doesn't tell you what is happening down range. Watching how vegetation is reacting to the wind down range will give you some idea. But only with lots of practice in the field under different conditions will you overcome the wind. That is one thing you cannot rush.

 

If the wind stays 5 mph or under, you will probably be alright out to 500 yds - providing your reticle or windage turret allows you to make the necessary changes suggested by your ballistic software. If the wind is steady at 10 mph, or gusting - then you should limit your shots to 300 yds and under. You need to practice wind hold-off or wind correction before going on your hunt. Just like your drop chart, you need to confirm the solution it gives you.

 

What I have found is that most ballistic software overestimates what your bullet and load will do down range. I always seem to need more clicks to get to the desired distance out past 400 yds. I have also found that it underestimates the ability of your bullet to buck the wind. I rarely need to make as much correction as the software tells me I need. Maybe it is my fault in overestimating the wind? Good luck on your late hunt.

What bullet are you using? Are you using the makers advertised BC?

[rcdinaz]

Things you need:

 

Altimeter - If you have a GPS or Phone you have this. A lot of inexpensive watches also have this feature.

 

Inclinometer - For determining shot angle, again your phone can do this or you can mount one on your rifle

 

Anemometer - Wind is more difficult than the drop. Once you use it a lot you get a pretty good idea of what a 5, 10, or 15 mph wind is like.

 

Range Finder - I am sure everyone has this

 

Shooter - The app when set right will do everything but range and measure the wind. It will adjust for all atmospheric conditions, it does have an inclinometer, spin drift, coriolis, and for wind both direction and speed can be set very simply. If you are worried about a cell signal set everything at the closest signal you can find then make any tweaks using the other tools mentioned before you start your hunt in the morning. I also print off a chart for the conditions I expect and tape it to the rifle stock. My experience is out to 400-500 yds the calculations change very little even with altitude, humidity, and temp changes. Incline and wind are the big ones that will make you miss.

This sounds like a lot but once you get your routine down it takes 5 minutes or less.

[Zeke-BE]

Yes know what the wind does and know what 5mp and 10 mph wind is. Wind at 10 mph is 18 inches for 500 yard for my rifle and I hit it twice and not realizing the wind picked up I adjusted the moa and starting hitting the plate agiain. But at 800 it's 48 inches ( 4 feet). Good luck

[muledeerarea33?]

Forget all the experts. Shoot and find your true grouping at your hunting elevation. Should only take a weekend or a day. Calculators are great but I always find my self second guessing and making my own ballistic charts. More accurate?? Um, yes because it's actual info!!

[pwrguy]

Go out and shoot at the range you want to shoot and see where it hits and how it groups. No point in getting into to much of the science and math at this late stage of the game. Whatever range your group goes to more than 5 inches is too far for you. Good luck.

[308Nut]

I'm with DB on this. It's a bit late in the game to be trying to make this work.

 

As far as temp and altitude (pressure), at 500 yards, the difference between 3000' and average temp swings has negligible. More noticeable at 600 and by 800 you'd better have accurate measurements.

 

As far as reading pressure, you can use a pocket weather station such as a kestrel or brunton adc.

[vinniebeeks]

buy a g7 range finder it will do everything for you. i have a lieca and it tell me the baro pressure temp and angle and i input that all into my SHOOTER app and i adjust scope from there and its pretty deadly.

[AUminer]

Howdy welcome to long range shooting. Right before the hunt is probable not the best time to start shooting at distances farther than you are comfortable with, it takes some time and understanding and alot of practice to consistently range and shoot at farther distances, in actual field conditions. If you have time read up on it and watch some videos ( gunwerks has some good ones on there website ) Learn to use a ballistics calculator and practice practice practice. If there is not enough time before your hunt I would probably sight your gun in for 250 yards and limit your shots to 300 max. I hope you have a fun and successful hunt.

[Presmyk]

 

 

I have a late bull elk hunt and I need to be good out to about 500 yards, I have a 300win mag with a vortex viper;my scope has turets and ffp. If I zero my scope at 200 how do I know how many clicks to use at 300, 400, 500?!? Please help!

you SHOOT it

That tends to help you see what size groups you're getting out there too. Based on what I see at the range, not many have any business shooting at 200 let alone 500. 1" per 100 yards of distance is the max 5 shot group size I would accept. That would be 5" @ 500.

That's very true but with out those guys we wouldn't find all the dead heads lol in shed season

[azmetalman]

G7 has a very good ballistic program. http://www.gseven.com/ballistic-program However you owe it to yourself and the elk or any game animal to ground proof the ballistic solutions in order to make ethical long range shots. Shoot at 3 distances beyond 200 yards(depending on your max anticipated distance) after your zeroing session. Then plug the results into the program. If you don't you will never be 100% certain where your bullet will be at any distance beyond your zero. Just my 2 cents.